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Future Games Rock
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Bendix Claws, The T 
Continuum T 
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Invisibility Lessons T 
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Therapeutic Tyranny T 

Continuum 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Long, Mike Lechlinski & Mari Gingery 12/78
Page Views: 3,154
Submitted By: Rob "rk" Kalinowski on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (106)
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Jared from Dallas starting up Continuum.

Description 

Very nice start, solid, and nice moves to the top of an "arrow head" where nice climbing encounters the crack. Jam, and enjoy good gear to an awkward right bending crack. Negotiate the crack with no foot holds the right with balance, and walk the ledge. Jam through the rest of the tough climbing and finish up near a wide horizontal crack, great for anchoring. Give a weird look to your partner when they come up the climb, and complain about the awkward right bending crack. It was totaly comfortable, right? ha ha.


Protection 

Standard rack to 3".


Photos of Continuum Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Morley on lower section of Continuum. Photo: ...
Mike Morley on lower section of Continuum. Photo: ...
At the crux. Photo by Blitzo.
At the crux. Photo by Blitzo.
Continuum (5.8+) runs the the right leaning dogleg...
BETA PHOTO: Continuum (5.8+) runs the the right leaning dogleg...
60 year old, Phil Bircheff having fun on "Con...
60 year old, Phil Bircheff having fun on "Con...

Comments on Continuum Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 29, 2014
By Dynomight510
Sep 29, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good pro from the start. The start involves face climbing on big holds to gain the right angling crack. The crack is hand size and varies a bit. It's a bit awkward to climb and reminds me of Illusion Dweller only easier. This route get shade in the afternoon.

Fun moves, good rock.

A few sustained sections
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 1, 2003

My son and I did an interesting (At least to us) alternative on this route. On a top rope we did the first few moves up to and above the turn to the right, then went straight up where it thins out quite a bit. Using an undercling on the flake left of the crack and planting feet on small edges, do another move on the flake area then ease over to the left crack and work your way up. It was fun after doing the route as was originally set.
By Woody Stark
Mar 16, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I warmed up on this today before leading Invisibilty Lessons. I should have reversed it.
By Bo Johnston
Oct 18, 2006

The book says that Future Games Rock is 1 mile from the parking lot. Not true, it is .4 miles. Oh, and the climb is great but quite a bit harder than Invisibility Lessons and I would agree that reversing these two climbs for warm-up practices would be wise.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 21, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Rating is accurate IMO, as long as you asssume the "+" means awkward. The anchor will take #3 camalots (a 3.5 would be better), as well as a small TCU (yellow or blue) and a hand sized cam. Route takes good gear at just about any spot. Small/med stoppers and a few 1.5"-3" cams should be plenty. People say this is harder than Invisibility Lessons, I disagree...it is more awkward but less strenous. BPJ is right, this is nowhere near a mile from the parking, it's about a 3 minute easy stroll.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 23, 2007

This route might actually be harder than Invisibility Lessons. Leany and a bit awkward but a must do for the area.
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Apr 16, 2007
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Had no problem with other 5.8s and 5.9s in the park this week, but WHAT THE HECK. This thing was such an awkward lead for me. I admit, I'm not proficient at angling crack climbs. Ate quite a bit of humble pie, as it took me about four or five hangs to get up this. Felt like I was just draging my legs up through that right hand turn.
Led Invisibility Lessons next...easily. Huh?
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jun 9, 2007

"This route might actually be harder than Invisibility Lessons"...

I agree...
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 6, 2008

Not sure whether it's harder than Invisibility Lessons or not, but it is most definitely better. Continuum is a great line with fun moves.
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 24, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I led this after following Invisibility Lessons. I felt this climb was easier as opposed to other posters and also my partner. It was an awesome way to end a great trip. This climb met my expectations of being challenging yet comfortable for my level. The protection is great and the angle allows for less strenuous climbing than its neighbor. Each move was enjoyable bottom to top and I will be back for more.
By BrendanC
From: Sherman oaks, ca
Mar 18, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought this was a great line. A little of everything. The first 15 feet looks harder than it is, but hanging around to get in a piece could be strenuous and actually make falling here more likely. I felt safer climbing directly to the top of the big flake, huge stance, and then you can throw in as much gear as you want. Yes the top section is awkward, however, there are some sinker jams and great pro. This is 5.8 because it's been 5.8 forever, but it's the hardest 5.8 that I've done in the park (kind of like Double Cross being 5.7 (?)).
Still, I felt it was slightly easier than Invis Lessons.
Another great 5.8 that feels like a 5.9 is Gem, do it!
By Julian Sutter
Apr 11, 2011

I don't know if the difficulty of this can be compared to invisibility lessons fairly, as they are very different climbs. This climb was awkward and a bit thrutchy at times. The hand jams were solid through the middle, but the feet were not. And when feet rocked the hands were thing. The only part that seemed harder than 5.8 may have been the last bit (from the ledge up).

Invisibility lesson was a very delicate climb imo, and a LOT more heady. Easier moves, but didn't afford as much desperateness
By J.J
Apr 19, 2011

Wtf is up with the first few moves of this climb! Although I followed it when I was way sick. Shouldn't have climbed that day...
By alleyehave
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 29, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I have a peculiar discontent for awkward climbs. I don't even like looking at them, but for some reason I climbed this route. And i'm glad I did. After reading the comments on here I couldn't imagine what possessed me to do so. On an awkward scale from 1-10, i'd give it a 4. The "awkward" section was very straightforward and enjoyable. I found that this was slightly easier than its neighbor Invisibility Lessons(I liked Continuum more). But honestly, the two climbs couldn't be anymore different. The jams were all solid, the start was fun and secure. I'd say the technical crux was near the top as the climb drastically changed gears from a brute "awkward" jaunt to a somewhat delicate, thought-out sequence, loved it! 5.8+ for sure, but no harder...
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 29, 2014

If a climb is awkward for you it means you don't possess the technique to climb it smoothly. There is no awkward rock or awkward rock climb, only awkward climbers.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 29, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Tell that to Will S caughtinside
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 29, 2014

I was sitting 3 feet from Will S the first time I heard the "awkward" rant.