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 ADVANCED
2. Duet Area etc
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Add Libs T 
All Day Sucker T 
British Were Coming, The T 
Condemned Man T 
Continuation of Rock Candy T 
Dreamin' T,S,TR 
Duet T 
Duet Direct T 
Fall from Grace  T,S 
Jawbreaker (not completely done)  T 
Light Brigade, The T 
Lightning Crack  T 
Pops-Sick-Hill T 
Raven Crack T 
Rock Candy T 
Rodan T 
Sam's Ghost T 
Sam's Swan Song T 
Sayonara T 
Sextet T 
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 
Sinister Satisfaction  T 
Slow and Easy T 
Sticky Fingers T 
White and Young T 

Continuation of Rock Candy 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b C0 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b C0 [details]
FA: Bradley White, Craig Young, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 542
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Right of yellow line Rock Candy. Orange is Jawbrea...

Description 

Above 'Quartet Ice Hose' belay and rappel station climb corner with (5.8) difficulty from the start. This an excellent solid corner with a deep crack in it. Do (5-10c) moves mid way up as the corner begins to bulge (tri-cams are helpful). Very hard moves are made to get high up the bulge to clip and pull over the bulge by large solid lost arrow pin (A-0). Easily climb up to one smaller than another spooky hollow sounding stacked 8" thick giant table rocks that are wedged into the corner (excellent #3 cam below these). The blocks appeared to be defying gravity with their inclining angled seamless line in the corner. The blocks must be wedged in the corner tightly somehow because of their weight staying on the cliff so unbelievably the way that they are. Lay back the suspended blocks (5-7) and get gear in above them (I didnít dare put any gear in the lay back crack of the blocks for ten ft.) With nothing much to hold onto at the top of the smaller wedged block it is a difficult situation to be in and the bigger the person, the more cramped stuffed into this spot you'll be. After gear (smallest stoppers) stand up (5-9) on top of block. To fall before stopper placements would be disastrous. Then there is a wonderful finish out on the right climbed strenuously but easily (5-4) with a horn of rock over the corner to the Popís Sick Hill block rappel station.

Location 

Left side of 'Quartet Ice Hose' is the corner above the belay, rappel station.

Protection 

1 fixed pin, Trad. rack #3 and down friends or cams.


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