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Continental Crag
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Continental Drift 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: R. & J. Rositer, 1986
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Pin [details]
Page Views: 336
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 6, 2002
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Mark Roth near the top of Continental Corner.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

On the lower end of Continental Crag and above the sloping band of rock which forms the lower half, a large shelf/ledge sits below 4 massive, vertical dihedrals, each of which is bordered by a huge roof of sorts, on the right-hand side. The third one up of these (starting from the left) holds the route "Continental Drift". Start up from the ledge into a series of tiered roofs which progress up and to the right until you are just below the roof out on the right. To this point, the climbing is no harder than 5.8.

Once at the horizontal band parallel to the roof on the right, which resembles a closed hand with an extended index finger pointing upward and to the Southwest, move out on the band, placing a TCU or a tricam (or two) in the ~1" wide section of crack before pulling up and into a seam out on the center of 'the hand' and clipping the pin there. This can be accomplished from the left most easily, or for a whopping physical challenge, go around the corner to the right and pull though the bulge - a REAL body-stomping move. (Don't get a hernia!) Once at the pin, do some reasonable face climbing straight up to the summit corner.

If the 10d crux is too daunting, continue up the initial dihedral to the top. The route is less exciting, but the moves are still fun, and the route is well protected.


Protection 

The route takes a few cams, 0.5-3" until the crux, which is protected from below by a pink and red tricam in a horizontal and from above by a pretty good pin. Clipping the pin may be difficult from below the crux. Rossiter's book suggests taking a #4 cam, but I did not find that piece to be necessary.



Photos of Continental Drift Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Bubb on the upper section of 'Continental Drift (5.10d).' Photo by Peter Spindloe, 2002.
Tony Bubb on the upper section of 'Continental Dri...
The route from the base.
The route from the base.
Jay enjoying the good part.
Jay enjoying the good part.
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