South side of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Routes tend to be Northwest facing. This is described in the Ruckman Guide as the first granite buttress on the south side that one will encounter as one is going up canyon. Approach time is not really much longer than 35 minutes and has become easier over the last few years due to the trails at the mouth and more traffic.
See the Ruckman Guide. Drive into the parking and hiking area just at the mouth and park. Head across the creek at the trail crossing below the crag....head on up.
We must have been into Madonna then? This is probably more of an update than a first ascent, but it is much different than previously documented, As described in the Ruckman Guide, this route was originally done in a bit of a hurry. Way back when, George and I did essentially no cleaning and aided the 3rd pitch as darkness was soon approaching. Since then, I went back numerous times with Franziska Garrett and we did significant cleaning, freed the old aided pitch (#3), and added some more...[more]Browse More Classics in UT