“constructive” comments on logistics

So we’ve been planning a first time trip to the valley for about six months now, for a month long stay in May. Within this time all of our energy has been focused on prepping for the climbs them self. (I.e. rack, gear, skills, strength, fitness, ect, ect) However the more I read, and the more I try to plan the trip itself I get completely discourage. Apparently half the world is headed to the valley, I can’t find any open camps spots, and hear that it’s highly unlikely I will find a “first come first serve” camp spot.(Yes I know now i should have made plans when reservations first opened) Then even if we do find a spot, it sounds like we’ll have to wait in line for any classic climb. The only open camp grounds I have found are over an hour to the valley! Driving an hour to an hour fro doesn’t sound like fun. Then I have to win some sort of permit lottery to climb half dome but not any other wall? The idea of just showing up, parking, and climbing a wall sounds impossible. So out of 30 days, between crowds, lines, waiting, and who knows what else sounds like I might get two walls in. Hopefully someone can shed some light here, am I just being completely pessimistic or are crowds/waiting really that bad? I have heard of stories of guys just setting a ledge up 10 feet off the ground and calling that home in between walls, however I am sure they forbid that now.

Alright end of rant, fire away with hasty comments about how I should just skip out on the valley all together. Haha

But if anyone has any “constructive” comments on logistics for a climber please fire away.

Cheers!

I'm no expert, hopefully you'll get some better beta from others, but I camped there last summer. We were able to get a reservation in one of the campgrounds by basically having ten people on different computers ready to click like mad the second the reservations opened 6 months out. Out of all of us we got exactly one site and booked it, everything was closed out only seconds later. I can't speak to the walk-in situation since we didn't have to do it - but we had no trouble driving in to Tuolumne and getting a site that same evening in June. I believe there are places you can backcountry camp for limited number of nights, and that nights up on the wall don't count against that number, but you'll have to check into that.

As for Half-Dome, the lottery for permits applies specifically to day-hiking up the cables route.

When i hit the valley for a week in peak season i encountered similar conditions. I was on a road trip and just rolled in. Slept at a gas station one night in the car, then got a slot in the upper pines (got up early and went to the wrong camping kiosk) for one night, then got up at 4 am to guarantee a spot in Camp 4. If your there for a month you shouldn't have too big a problem lining up but might have to be flexible for a day or two. You could also get a backcountry permit and camp at the higher elevations.

Its a total cluster in general especially if your only staying on the ground for a few days between walls. But as was stated - worth doing at least once!

Stop stressing; you'll be fine. Everyone who goes to the Valley deals with the same logistics, and everyone seems to find a way to make it work. It is a hassle, but you'll work around it. Eventually, the BS wears you down and drives you away from Yosemite, but if you are psyched enough you'll deal.

A few more specific comments:

Ddub979 wrote: Apparently half the world is headed to the valley,

Nothing new there it's been going one that way for decades

Ddub979 wrote: it’s highly unlikely I will find a “first come first serve” camp spot

Not true; you just have to get in the Camp 4 line at 5 am on your first morning there, and you should get a site. The way to do it is to bivy outside the park the night before, then get up at dark-o-clock and drive in to get in the line.

Ddub979 wrote: Then I have to win some sort of permit lottery to climb half dome but not any other wall?

Permits are only required to hike up the cables with the cattle; no permit required for the technical routes.

Ddub979 wrote: Then even if we do find a spot, it sounds like we’ll have to wait in line for any classic climb.

That depends on how you define "classic". The famous routes are crowded, but there are plenty of great routes that are empty. Yes, there are line-ups on Serenity Crack, the Nose, Royal Arches, and the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. However, 90% of the climbers will be on 5% of the routes, and plenty of the non-famous, non-crowded routes are incredible.

Ddub979 wrote: am I just being completely pessimistic or are crowds/waiting really that bad?

It really isn't that bad, so long as you are ready to work around the various hurdles.

what about car camping there? what are the logistics? no campsite , just park and sleep kinda thing...

oh god you're here now...

Just show up an enjoy the adventure of figuring shit out on the fly.

Most reserved campsites won't be completely full. It is easy to drive by and ask a couple or small group if you can join them. Usually offering fire wood, beer, or paying their camp fee will guarantee you a spot. You may even make friends out of it too.

Don't stress out, get there early and start the game.