Consternation is basically a hand and finger crack. The climb ends where the crack flattens out. It is a one pitch climb but looks like you could continue for a second. We started the climb behind the boulder (came in from the right). Like Left Side of the Key, just as fun as many Perch routes but without the convenience of a walk off (read more adventure).
This route is located on the north side of Turkey Tail. Hiking along the north side of the Tail coming from the Perch look for cracks in photo. To descend (option 1) turn left at top of climb, downclimb a hallway (maybe low fifth), now you will be at the starting ledge for Eclipse, Termination, and Live Fire. Go through an opening between boulders and turn left for easiest path. For option 2, rappel from slings at the top of Acoplopse (spelling?) (two cracks to the east).
Standard rack, gear for belay.
BETA PHOTO: The crack to the left of Consternation, I believe ...
|By Steven Reneau|
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nice climb up a varying width crack, but stiffer than nearby 5.7s like Honky Jam Ass Crack and Left Side of the Key. My 2nd had 2nded Termination (5.8) the day before, and thought Consternation was harder. A #5 Camalot was very helpful for the top of the offwidth section low in the climb, protection to keep from hitting a ledge. To descend, we rapped from the anchors 2 cracks to the east (left), after backing up the 2 ~6 mm cords slung around a block with webbing (old; doesn’t seem to get much traffic). We didn’t like the looks of the steep “hallway” (5th class?) from the top. An alternate descent heads west (right) ~2-3 cracks, joining the Turkey Delight descent route, dropping through a hole beneath boulders to a low 5th class chimney. This route passes through an arch immediately west of the Consternation belay point, and we checked it out from below after a TD party had emerged here.