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Northwest Recess
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Consolation, The 
Constellation 
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Long Climb, The 
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Snakes on Everything 
Souvenir, The 
Swallow, The 
Whodunit 
Wong Climb 

Constellation 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Charles Peterson, 1990
Page Views: 205
Submitted By: C Miller on Aug 7, 2013
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Description 

Tucked amongst a host of popular routes is this seldom done testpiece which deserves more traffic. Although listed as five pitches, and at the top possible to link into adjoining routes, most parties these days rap off after the end of the fourth pitch and call it good. The third pitch is exceptionally good and were it closer to the ground would almost certainly see the traffic it deserves.

P1) Climb up the center of the slab linking crack features with somewhat runout face climbing to a belay atop a ledge. (5.8 PG)

P2) Climb a crack then move up and left past a bolt to gain another crack/flake and another small ledge with a bush. (5.10b)

P3) Intricate climbing up a series of cracks/flakes and over a small roof/overlap culminating in a tricky leftwards traverse with the hardest moves just before the belay at a stance. Long slings are helpful on this wandering but excellent quality pitch (5.11c)

P4) A short entirely bolt protected pitch with the hardest moves coming before reaching a small belay ledge. (5.12a)

P5) Face climb up and then right to a weakness through the roof above and then challenging climbing up over another roof with a runout finish (5.10) to a stance with bolts. There is some loose rock on this pitch which should be trundled to make it safer. (5.11d R)

Unless continuing to the top via an adjoining route make three (3) rappels from the top of the 5th (or 4th) pitch using two (2) 60 meter ropes.


Location 

Located on the narrow face between The Swallow and The Consolation.


Protection 

bolts, gear to 2", slings



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By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 7, 2013

This route was originally called "Rubber Soul".