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Routes in 5. Slabs
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Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blockade Direct ? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cirrus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Condescender T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Condescending (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Consolation Prize T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Falling Aspirations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13 |
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Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lakeview T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lima Bean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Micron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Odyssey of an Artichoke T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slip o' Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snooky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stretched On Your Grave TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wag, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Weissners Butress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Weissners Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m) |
| FA: | tom lyman (2 pitches) al rubin and john waterman (whole route 1970) |
| Page Views: | 10,488 total · 67/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Jul 11, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Details
Description
A fun route right up the slabs under the "Old Man". [Re' photo - there is also an excellent photo, at a slightly different angle, of the route posted to the Lakeview route. ]
Pitch 1: 5.7 Climb up and right of the big Detached rocks traversing right to a left facing corner. Tricky, slippery moves up the corner with good pro. Head up and right in to an alcove of broken rock with a single bolt. Belay.
Pitch 2: 5.8 make a long step right and walk on small ledges continuing in that direction until you have to make a long move right in to the amazing crack that you cant see till you are in it. Climb this crack (wide fingers to perfect hands) until you hit fist size then head up and left on slab to broken corner. Step down and left to a small ledge with 2 bolt anchor. This is right above the alcove belay.
Pitch 3: 5.8 Move left and climb easy "stairs" with no pro to the overlap (pin). Pull over this and climb crumbly slab through broken overlap, move slightly right to a pin at a cruxy overlap. Make a tricky (reachy) move and gain the anchors (2 bolts). [2020NOTE-see several COMMENTs about pin and belay bolt(s) on this pitch, R Hall NH Admin.]
Pitch 4: 5.5 Climb crumbly mossy rock (not as bad as it sounds) past a pin and move left through the overlaps and up to a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 5: 5.7 Climb the slab above by moving up and right then back left and finishing up a finger crack. then pick your way through the broken stuff above to a belay down and left of where the Old Man once was.
basically this is where it meets up with Lake view. The Last two pitches that are shared by many routes are some of the best i've done on the cliff. A pretty face with amazing cracks followed by a pretty corner that goes just left of the Old Man.
Pitch 1: 5.7 Climb up and right of the big Detached rocks traversing right to a left facing corner. Tricky, slippery moves up the corner with good pro. Head up and right in to an alcove of broken rock with a single bolt. Belay.
Pitch 2: 5.8 make a long step right and walk on small ledges continuing in that direction until you have to make a long move right in to the amazing crack that you cant see till you are in it. Climb this crack (wide fingers to perfect hands) until you hit fist size then head up and left on slab to broken corner. Step down and left to a small ledge with 2 bolt anchor. This is right above the alcove belay.
Pitch 3: 5.8 Move left and climb easy "stairs" with no pro to the overlap (pin). Pull over this and climb crumbly slab through broken overlap, move slightly right to a pin at a cruxy overlap. Make a tricky (reachy) move and gain the anchors (2 bolts). [2020NOTE-see several COMMENTs about pin and belay bolt(s) on this pitch, R Hall NH Admin.]
Pitch 4: 5.5 Climb crumbly mossy rock (not as bad as it sounds) past a pin and move left through the overlaps and up to a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 5: 5.7 Climb the slab above by moving up and right then back left and finishing up a finger crack. then pick your way through the broken stuff above to a belay down and left of where the Old Man once was.
basically this is where it meets up with Lake view. The Last two pitches that are shared by many routes are some of the best i've done on the cliff. A pretty face with amazing cracks followed by a pretty corner that goes just left of the Old Man.
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