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5. Slabs
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Consolation Prize 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 900'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: tom lyman (2 pitches) al rubin and john waterman (whole route 1970)
Page Views: 3,966
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: I can't remember where I got this. Maybe NEclimbs...

Description 

A fun route right up the slabs under the "Old Man".

Pitch 1: 5.7 Climb up and right of the big Detached rocks traversing right to a left facing corner. Tricky, slippery moves up the corner with good pro. Head up and right in to an alcove of broken rock with a single bolt. Belay.

Pitch 2: 5.8 make a long step right and walk on small ledges continuing in that direction until you have to make a long move right in to the amazing crack that you cant see till you are in it. Climb this crack (wide fingers to perfect hands) until you hit fist size then head up and left on slab to broken corner. Step down and left to a small ledge with 2 bolt anchor. This is right above the alcove belay.

Pitch 3: 5.8 Move left and climb easy "stairs" with no pro to the overlap (pin). Pull over this and climb crumbly slab through broken overlap, move slightly right to a pin at a cruxy overlap. Make a tricky (reachy) move and gain the anchors (2 bolts).

Pitch 4: 5.5 Climb crumbly mossy rock (not as bad as it sounds) past a pin and move left through the overlaps and up to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 5: 5.7 Climb the slab above by moving up and right then back left and finishing up a finger crack. the pick your way through the broken stuff above to a belay down and left of where the Old Man once was.

basically this is where it meets up with Lake view. The Last two pitches that are shared by many routes are some of the best i've done on the cliff. A pretty face with amazing cracks followed by a pretty corner that goes just left of the Old Man.

Location 

Toward the left side of the slab section locate 2 very large detached block/flakes. You will be looking right up at the Old Man Not On the Mountain.

start here and finish to the left of the Old Man, as for Lake View.

Protection 

Regular Cannon rack.


Photos of Consolation Prize Slideshow Add Photo
i cleaned all this junk/treasure off of Conso today... not a bad haul really... some of it looked like it had been there for a long time... but the pen is in perfect condition :)
BETA PHOTO: i cleaned all this junk/treasure off of Conso toda...
this is the rough line of the route.... if i find a higher res photo in my stash i will make a better map for yal...
BETA PHOTO: this is the rough line of the route.... if i find ...
Higher res photo, note the crack on P2
Higher res photo, note the crack on P2
the red line is closer but not perfect... id love to know the official way to move through this part... i just play choose your own adventure :)
the red line is closer but not perfect... id love ...

Comments on Consolation Prize Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Z.
Aug 7, 2011

P1 the "tricky" corner is 5.8, where a block fell out. The crack on P2 was at one time a sustained finger crack but has widened due to rockfall. The crack is now probably 5.6 with a hardish move entering it P2 5.7? that being said the crack is spectacular and well worth climbing.
By twellman
Aug 14, 2011

Pitches 1 and 2 are quite fun, and well protected. There is a little 15 foot section of 5.5ish slab without pro on pitch 2 above the crack, but it is over quickly and easy climbing. The hand crack on pitch 2 is wonderful.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 31, 2011

lily forgot her shoes today and climbed this route barefoot! nice work lillers!
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Sep 8, 2011

I think the top half of the line on your topo photo is too far to the right. Right about where you mentioned you got lost. I've done this route many times and always headed left on the fifth pitch up a bit of a run-out slab to meet up with Wiessner's Corner. The description on Chauvin Guides is accurate. I also added a beta photo that was updated after the rock fall.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 8, 2011

thanks that makes soooo much sence! i knew i was off... and i did it again and still couldnt figure it out but figured thats cannon for you.... ill make a note on my photo-map
By lin murphy
From: boulder
Sep 12, 2011

I managed to get off route on the 3rd pitch by going up to an old bolt just up and left of the pin.
Don't do it this way! Up and up with cams in an overlap I cleaned with the nut tool. It is down=climable, but definitely not worth it.

Also, avoid going straight up from the first belay. It looked interesting to climb to the top of the pod and then step right to bolted face. But, there is no pro at the top of the pod, and those hangers are smashed flat.
Finally, I dislodged a rock on the first pitch and it cut my rope.
no wonder it is a famous climb.
By Michael Z.
Sep 18, 2011

So Lee you may have been a little off route but it looks like you linked up with "Connection" The book says " a good way to avoid the loose rock on the upper pitches." so maybe that is the better way to go.

Lin, the slab you were looking at is Condicending (9+). Personally I don't think it is that bad Bolts can still be clipped "with skinny biners" or slung with nuts the bolts don't look bad just the hangers.

Finally I have been working on a topo of the slabs and am going to post it on the main page so please take a look. I would appreciate any more info anyone has :)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 18, 2011

Mike, i just checked out your topo and the line you have for Conso is exactly the way i climbed it so maybe my description was hard to follow or my picture sucked but its good to know we climbed the same route haha :)
By Robert Hall
Aug 14, 2014

Wow! 3 yrs without a comment...guess it's time. For what it's worth, when I did the climb the "green" line was closer to what I remember. Back then, P1 was 5.4, but the step-into-the-finger-crack (which then stayed a finger crack) was about 5.7-5.8. If the pin in the overlap at the end of the "5.2 stairstep" is a 1 1/2" angle driven straight into a "hole", then it's been there since D. Byers and I climbed it, the probable 3rd ascent in 1971.