Conquest of Paradise
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 9 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, Alpine, 6 pitches |
FA: | Beni Wenger and Jürg von Känel, 1995 |
Page Views: | 1,957 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | e Dixon on Jun 12, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Dan Flynn, Mark P. |
Description
Quality route with varied face climbing, everything from slabs to roofs. Topo provided supplies the details.
Note that there are several routes which criss cross, so check the topo carefully while leading if you want to be sure to do the 'original' route!
P4 offers two distinct choices: burl straight up through some interesting 3D movements, or traverse around left and make a meandering route up the face. The latter is the original route, and requires some good use of slings to avoid heinous rope drag.
P5 also offers some choices. The original route goes at 5c+ A0 by pulling on two quickdraws at the beginning of the leftward traverse. These moves go at 6a+ with some good route finding. Alternatively, you can head straight up a perfect bolted crack at 7a+.
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