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Conqueror Worm
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 8
votes
Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side
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Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Card Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Clucker, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Good Housekeeping T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Human Be-In T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quest for Fire T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stone Hinge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Westways TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Todd Gordon & Kelly Vaught, 1980; FFA: Unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,925 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route shares the first few moves of Popular Mechanics and then cuts left up the face via thin edges to gain the striking thin crack/seam which diagonals up the face.
The crux comes midway and involves delicate footwork as you get established in the widening crack as it opens to accept fingers. Continue railing left on easier ground until you reach the back of the Card Chimney and then head up via fun crack climbing on great rock to another crux (5.10+) reaching for a distant edge. The route finishes up open face climbing directly to the anchors on Ace of Spades.
Unique climbing and excellent quality rock are featured on this route that is unfortunately very contrived as you can stem back during the lower crux section and make this quite easy; the upper crux is mandatory however.
- This route is briefly mentioned as an aid route in the Bartlett guide, but no other information has been documented to my knowledge. I'm sure the crack has been toproped and perhaps even lead, but probably by finishing up the top part of Card Chimney as the direct finish has no protection.
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