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Crux move on traverse.
This problem traverses the King Conquerer boulder from left to right, finishing by pulling around the corner past the starting holds for Face Out. The feet are good, and the holds are fairly positive, though extremely sharp. The crux comes by trying to match on a very reachy gaston rail.
A v7 variation does the traverse, but finishes by climbing Face Out.
Crash Pad. A spotter isn't critical, but someone to move the pad would be nice for the variation that finishes on Face Out
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 18, 2004
Burly shoulder wrecker. That crux gaston always feels different to me. Sometimes it feels good sometimes it feels like shit. One of those problems I can usually do but never very smoothly. A good workout.
Nov 27, 2008
Some beta if you want it. There is a real good left leg knee bar while you have your left hand on the double in cut pinch/crimp at the first hand jam. From here reach right hand low on the rail bump to the better spot and then bump a final time to the top of the rail. Hope that makes a bit of sense.