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South Peak - West Face
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Conn's West 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: N.C. Hartz, Henry Schulter, Earl Richardson (1944)
Page Views: 6,720
Submitted By: Mark Cushman on Jun 14, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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BETA PHOTO: Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Rou...

Description 

P1. Climb the obvious left-facing flake/dihedral from the top of the first pitch of Old Man's Route. P1 ends at a ledge with a sizable tree and rappel anchors. This first pitch involves a few chimney moves and it's possible to sling some chockstones for pro.

P2. Climb the right-facing corner up and over a few ledge systems to the rappel ledge for the west face. Belay here to reduce rope drag or continue up through the notch to the summit ledges.


Location 

Start by climbing the first pitch of Old Man's Route.


Protection 

Standard Seneca rack.



Photos of Conn's West Slideshow Add Photo
Headed up the second pitch
Headed up the second pitch
Luke in the first pitch or the second if you count the old man's part.
Luke in the first pitch or the second if you count...
Luke near the top.
Luke near the top.
Luke pulling on a loose block near the top of the pitch.
Luke pulling on a loose block near the top of the ...
Maggie and Dad just near the end of P2
Maggie and Dad just near the end of P2
Comments on Conn's West Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Hutchins
From: Bethesda, MD
Oct 7, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

The direct finish goes up a nice inside corner to the left off the second belay ledge. Very nice 5.5 climbing with several fun stemming moves.

By dinglestyle
From: Catonsville, MD
Feb 20, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Super loose flake on the right facing wall of the dihedral just below the ledge with the tree on it.

By George Privon
From: Pasadena, CA
Jul 6, 2010

I second the comment on the direct variation. It is a much more enjoyable pitch than the original finish.

By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Sep 14, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

My first time at Seneca: after doing Simple J Malarky and not having much fun on it, getting lost on the way to do Green Wall, and saying "screw it, let's just get to the top before sun-down", I happened to be standing under this one which a very enjoyable cruise to the top. Usually I hate this low-level climbing because the falls almost always have ledge-fall potential. This is no different, except for the fact that falling is difficult to do! Even when I was 30 feet above my piece, I felt fine. I highly recommend this route! You could easily protect the whole thing with just nuts and hexes.

By Felix Duvallet
May 12, 2011

The direct finish is great!

By D.Starry
From: Pittsburgh, Pa
Jun 28, 2011

Do the direct finish to make it a 5.5. super fun!

By Don MacKenzie
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 5, 2012

I think this used to be 5.3 and the direct finish went at 5.4... those grades seemed more consistent by Seneca standards.

I highly recommend the direct finish.

P1 and P2 can easily be linked with 60m ropes. Try this with a 50 and your belayer will be simul-climbing the initial (very easy) moves.

There's also a direct variation down low that is worth doing. You climb a short, steep corner ("Stupid's Corner") immediately below the start of the chimney. It's probably 5.4 and you really only need to protect the exit move.

I recently did the 5.7 variation listed in the Barnes guide, which is about 10 feet to the right of the chimney pitch. it climbs the corner/chimney with 2 trees growing out of it near the base. Getting past the trees is a bit awkward but there's some good climbing above that makes it worthwhile.

By Mark Maier
Jun 16, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

We did the 5.7 variation (the corner with the two trees). It is where the comment says, just to the right of the chimney pitch. I can't say I recommend it. It is rather awkward, with considerable loose rock in the cracks. My second took a swing when a handhold broke off.