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Knight's Move 

5.4

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.4 [details]
Length: 60 feet
Views: 332 page views

Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 12, 2006


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Description 

This is the easiest way to the top of the cliff from Wiessner.

From the ledge at the top of the slab, downclimb underneath the boulder wedged in the crack on the right side of the ledge and step onto a small traverse ledge leading right. Not hard, but sort of strange. The bolt above you (if in place) marks Knight's Gambit. Ignore it.

Follow this ledge right (easy but exposed) to its end and pull up a short boulder problem.

You're now crossing Wet Wall. Climb up and take the right-hand set of corners to the top. Or follow Wet Wall on the left.

It can be hard to protect the second on the traverse. I drop the other end of the rope down to protect the initial moves where the route goes down and around the boulder when I have a beginner on this route.


Location 

At the top of Wiessner Slab


Protection 

Standard traprock rack



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By mobley
From: Haven, Ct
Jul 3, 2008

I've see some dangerous seconds on this one. my advice is once the leader has traversed under the boulder and stepped onto the Wet wall, look for a yellow or orange TCU to the right and protect your follower with this. if you traverse here without stepping down you can find a solid flake to sling in about 10 ft, 5ft left of the corner where you go up.