Me, on Carey Corner, shortly after falling and hit...
Description
This is the prominant dihedral just right of the Skull and Bones block. Climb through a fist-sized crack to the dihedral and the up the corner to the top.
This is a great 5.7+ climb, perfect for someone who wants a good intro to crack climbing. It does get harder as you go over the ledge about 3/4 of the way up, but is an interesting crack climb after that point because you have two to work with and experiment with. The beginning can be a little bit tricky if your not used to the cracks. Some will try to subvert the crack an look for handholds, but there are only smears out to the sides. Basically, if you get through the first 25 feet, and get a feel for the technique, then you should be able to easily get up the route.
This is the hardest 5.7 I have ever done. I haven't actually led it clean but the last time I tried was 2 years ago, so Im gonna go back this weekend and try again.
So I finally led this clean. After a strong season in Joshua Tree onsighting a couple of the harder 5.10 trad routes I was able to make a redpoint of the infamous Carey Corner. But seriously this thing is way hard.
By Goodhue From: East Hartford, CT May 20, 2009 rating: 5.8
Amazing climb. Absolutely the hardest "5.7" I have ever done. I will give it 5.8, even though I have definitely cruised easier 5.9s.
With that said, this is my favorite climb at Ragged so far. Definitely need some legit crack technique. It'll make you work for it, that's for sure. Saved my #4 for the top, but didn't end up using it.