BETA PHOTO: Routes 23 and 24 are on Wiessner Slab. Drawing by...
Description
This is the traditional beginners route at the Main Cliff. It ascends the obvious lower-angle slab that has detached itself from the main cliff. Two lines are available: on the left side, following some small cracks, and on the right side leading up face to a right-facing corner system.
This climb does not go to the top of the face but there is usually a rap anchor on the large ledge atop the slab.
In spite of this route's modest technical rating, you need to have good skills with traditional gear in order to safely lead it. The variation on the right, for instance, requires small nuts such as RPs or small stoppers in order to protect its small corner system. Effective placement of that kind of gear is a pretty sophisticated skill.
By Eli Kramer From: Saratoga Springs, NY Sep 12, 2009 rating: 5.3
The crack on the left side of the slab protects well.
I agree that the line on the left does protect well but I did have trouble placing gear just before the top of the climb. Also, it was a little tough building an anchor at the top. I used some marginal cracks near the left corner and backed up with a bush/small tree. I didn't use the rappel anchor as it's way off to the right side and I didn't want to create a lot of rope drag or possible swing for the second.
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