BETA PHOTO: Another shot of the climb (Keith Hoek)
Description
This route ascends the obvious stairstep dihedral on the Merimere Face. A Connecticut classic. Although obvious from the road below, this is somewhat tricky to find when approaching from the blue trail from the parking lot at the castle. Be sure to look at the landmarks around the climb as you drive up.
Climb the relatively easy corner to the first roof, undercling left (crux), and continue up a wide crack through another smaller roof to the top. A belay can be set after the first undercling to lessen rope drag.
Approach from the Metacomet trail. A gully on the south side gives access from the trail.
This can be toproped but a fall from under the crux overhang generates a very wild swing into space.
Protection
Bring some big stuff (#4, #5 camalot) if you want to lead this.
Bring 2 #4s(camalots) and bring 2 #5s minimum. personally, I'll be bringing 3 #4s and 3 #5s when I get back there. Sweet and super classic all the way until the end. could use some anchors(like everything else in CT)...
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