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Central- Traprock

Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Dec 10, 2007
Administrator: Jim O'Brien
Views: 33,259 page views

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Ragged Mountain


Description 

Climbing in Central CT is climbing Traprock! These beautiful ridge lines have been climbed for years with a few access issues; many of these spots are on private/water company property. Do your part to help preserve access while climbing here.

These are all Traprock areas:
Pinnacle Rock
Main Cliff
Rattlesnake
Owl's Lair
East Peak
Cathole
Green Wall
Porcupine Hole
The Garden
Sleeping Giant
??
??

Non Traprock:

Chatfield Hollow
Bible Rock Bouldering


Also check out John Peterson's Connecticut Traprock Climbing Beta


Getting There 

I-91 splits the middle of CT most climbing areas are quickly found <1hour off this highway.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Central- Traprock:
Wiessner Slab   5.3     Trad, 60 feet   Main Cliff
Knight's Move   5.4     Trad, 60 feet   Main Cliff
Ancient Way   5.4     Trad, 60 feet   Main Cliff
Wet Wall   5.6     Trad, 100 feet   Main Cliff
Cemetary Vault   5.7     Trad, 60 feet   Main Cliff
Carey Corner   5.7     Trad, 100 feet   Main Cliff
Tower Crack   5.7     Trad, 30 feet   Main Cliff
Wiessner Crack   5.8     Trad, 40 feet   Main Cliff
Pegasus   5.8     , 70 feet   Cathole
Broadway   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Main Cliff
Vector   5.8+     Trad, 100 feet   Main Cliff
Kor Crack   5.9-     Trad, 100 feet   Main Cliff
YMC Route   5.9     Trad, 100 feet   Main Cliff
Thor's Hammer   5.9     , 1 pitch, 80 feet   East Peak : Merimere Face
Unconquerable Crack   5.10a     Trad, 80 feet   Main Cliff
Ragged Edge   5.10+     TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Main Cliff
Subline   5.10d     Trad   Main Cliff
Browse More Classics in Central- Traprock

Featured Route For Central- Traprock
Dol Guldor is the chalked up crack on the left.

Dol Guldor 5.11 PG13  CT : Central- Traprock : ... : Ampitheatre
This is a totally classic Connecticut crack line. It is unforgiving the whole way although the beginning is the crux. The variation directly over the roof feels slightly easier, but its still pretty tough. Small fingers really help. Good Luck. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CT


Photos of Central- Traprock Slideshow Add Photo
Classic Traprock ascent

Classic Traprock ascent

Doug demonstrating textbook jamming on Cat Crack

Doug demonstrating textbook jamming on Cat Crack

Me on Cat Crack

Me on Cat Crack


Comments on Central- Traprock Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 22, 2006

John,

Thanks for adding Ragged Mountain. Hope you will contribute some routes to the Gunks as well!

FYI -- Fritz's name is spelled Wiessner (i before e).

By John Peterson
Feb 27, 2006

After getting chewed out by Sam Streibert for misspelling his name my i and e are permanently reversed.

By Eastvillage
From: New York, NY
Mar 19, 2006

Nice to see Connecticut on this site. However, climbers new to the area should know that most of the classic lines on the major crags SHOULD be led. As mentioned before, CT has a long climbing history and that history was written on the lead. Yes it's strenuous etc., but that's what makes CT climbing so great.

By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
May 9, 2006

heck yah Ct climbing is fun worth a trip

By coolaid
Oct 2, 2009

Hi,

Any thoughts on how quickly the Main Cliff dries? We are looking at going a day after a rain storm. We would be looking to lead the climbs and not really into wet crack. =)

Thanks for any thoughts.
Brooke