This area encompasses all of the traprock crags in central Connecticut. This area has a long history of climbing and consists of a unique rock that requires subtle and varied techniques.
Ragged Mountain's Main Cliff is perhaps CT's most impressive crag. It boasts high quality routes at many grade levels. It includes classic climbs established by Fritz Wiessner, Sam Streibert, John Reppy, Layton Kor, and many other talented climbers.
All routes in Connecticut are easily toproped if you have enough static line and/or webbing. Many are difficult to protect and strenuous to lead, making toproping a common style. If you choose to lead on traprock, be careful with your placements in parallel cracks and have a wide variety of gear available. Small wires such as RPs and HBs are often useful. Don't count on finding fixed gear even when mentioned in guidebooks. Many routes are typically done as topropes rather than leads due to a lack of protection. Please don't add fixed pro to existing routes.
Guidebooks
The best guidebook for this area is Dave Fasulo's Rock Climbing Connecticut.
Getting There
Directions to nearly all crags in Connecticut can be found at the Ragged Mountain Foundation's website, http://www.raggedmtn.org
This is a totally classic Connecticut crack line. It is unforgiving the whole way although the beginning is the crux. The variation directly over the roof feels slightly easier, but its still pretty tough. Small fingers really help. Good Luck. ...[more]
Nice to see Connecticut on this site. However, climbers new to the area should know that most of the classic lines on the major crags SHOULD be led. As mentioned before, CT has a long climbing history and that history was written on the lead. Yes it's strenuous etc., but that's what makes CT climbing so great.
Traprock Areas
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