| Chatfield Hollow |
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BETA PHOTO: The Z Wall
Description Chatfield Hollow is amazing, it is in my opinion the best part about CT climbing, the rock is good it has faces overhangs and slabs and has a short approach. Also many of the trees are decent close to the edge, so when you can't get a gear anchor you don't need 150ft of static line(still bring 50ft or so).
The best 5.11 in CT is here! Forearm Frenzy (5.11b-ish) as well as some great other lines including a huge 6ft Dyno TR problem on the far right side (5.12+?) a way hard finger crack starting in a little depression on an overhanging wall(5.12d) and the Trickster over on the far left side.
There is serious potential for hard (5.11-5.13) overhanging face routes left of Forearm Frenzy on the upper headwall, problem is working them is impossible because.....***EDIT-bolts have arrived*** there are no bolts for directionals, no gear directionals and a TR anchor would swing you very hard into some ugly looking trees. I hope I'm still climbing when CT climbers decide that some bolts are OK, especially when they open up previously unprotectable rock.
Come and check out this great cliff, especially if you live in CT, although it is definitely worth a day trip if you live within 150mi.
Getting There From Route 9 (Main cliff area): take Exit 9. Follow Route 81 south to Route 80 at the traffic circle, watch for park entrance signs on the right, drive a little farther, park on the left walk up the road 150yds past a little roadcut then head into the woods just before the guardrail (faint trail) head in cliff is less than 100yds away.
From I-95: take Exit 63. Follow Route 81 north to Route 80 west, watch for park entrance signs on the right, drive a little farther, park on the left walk up the road 150yds past a little roadcut then head into the woods just before the guardrail (faint trail) head in cliff is less than 100yds away.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chatfield Hollow:
P&H 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Sirius 5.9- Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Featured Route For Chatfield Hollow
Shape Shifter 5.12c CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow
This is probably the best 5.12 at Chatfield, one of the best 5.12's in CT, and maybe even in New England. The route has amazing holds that change in form as you progress up the route: small crimps, angular pinches, a pocket, huge pillow slopers, to huge roof jugs. Start on the Forearm Frenzy crack and cut immediately left to a good jug hold and then start up the crimps in the overhanging wall. Steady 5.10+ crimping leads to a technical foot intensive boulder problem with a big reach left to a an... [more] Browse More Classics in CT
The view down into the Hollow from atop a 5.5 slab...
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BETA PHOTO: Wallow in the Hollow
First remarkable climb as you...
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BETA PHOTO: Left of the Wallow
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BETA PHOTO: Right of the Z Wall
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BETA PHOTO: The Z Wall upper section
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BETA PHOTO: The Z Wall
Forearm Frenzy, Frenzy Direct
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BETA PHOTO: Kyles Corner
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BETA PHOTO: Right of P & H
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BETA PHOTO: Gneiss Face, Jungle Face
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BETA PHOTO: Clark Bar
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BETA PHOTO: Jolt
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BETA PHOTO: Trad Crack
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BETA PHOTO: Overhanging climbs at the far left end of the crag...
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Chatfield hollow
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| Comments on Chatfield Hollow |
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 3, 2008
| Hey Ladd, you should talk to Whitey (John MacLain). We used to climb there many years ago and he put up a bunch of TR routes and will probably remember the names. Just to the left of the Zig Zag crack we put up a really nice 12c that Whitey called Shape Shifter that was really good. It starts out on crimpers, than has some slopey moves and a bit of a roof to the final headwall moves that I think ended with a dyno. It would be a classic lead route with a few bolts...someday. There are a bunch of other nice TR problems there as well as a few challenging crack leads. |
By Toby
From: Jackson, WY
Jun 10, 2011
| Rumor has it some bolts just got added to this area! Anyone have any idea which routes got bolted. When I climbed here years ago Ken Nichols was always there too and those bolts wouldn't have lasted long. |
By Nick1984
Jun 11, 2011
| Toby, I was there a couple weeks ago and saw the bolts going up the face and to the overhang directly left of Forearm Frenzy. Looked like glue-ins instead of threaded bolts... |
By guy bon
Jun 23, 2011
| wahoooo!...two new routes and a couple otherwise unprotectable .12s |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 3, 2011
| Sweet! I always wanted to go back and bolt Shape Shifter |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 11, 2011
| It would be nice if somebody was able to order the routes. Otherwise it could be pretty confusing to a visitor (and maybe an overview topo). It seems like Shylo is pretty active here now. Maybe he could be put in charge of the OP. |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 14, 2011
| Maybe try a higher up and they could make you an admin too. Admins probably need to be refreshed avery once in a while, as I am sure it can become close to a full time job to do it well. |
By mobley
Administrator
Nov 18, 2011
| I would think if someone wanted to make an overview topo of the place they could spend the time doing that and then post it like Shylo did for the Firewall. Mtn Proj is not set up to order the routes very easily but it seems to me that every new route is SUPER easy to find from the quality descriptions to the pictures. If one was to get lost at Chatfield they probably shouldnt be climbing or need to put the bong down, one of the two, maybe both. |
By Morgan Patterson
Nov 22, 2011
| haha I think Mark just meant when you submit a new route there are sorting options where you drag and drop routes around in a sort order... but yes shylo's and others' photos make it incredibly easy to find the routes. |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 23, 2011
| Yeah, the photos make it much clearer. If Shylo or Morgan, who seem to know the area, where put in charge, since Ladd doesn't seem active on this posting any more, they could sort all the routes and not just the ones they posted, no? |
By mobley
Administrator
Dec 6, 2011
| I love a bolted route about 100 times more than a TR route. |
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