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Chatfield Hollow Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anarchist , The S 
Blinded By The Puss T,S 
Bloody Beetroots, The S 
Captain Moonlite T,S 
Clark Bar Crack T 
Cold Vein , The S 
Dyno Problem TR 
Exposed TR 
Fear The Wolf T 
Food Pyramid T,TR 
Forearm Frenzy T 
Half crack TR 
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct T,S 
Its Own Spirit T,S 
Jungle Face T,TR 
Kilometer Variation 
Kyles Corner T,TR 
Magic Central S 
Marmalade T,TR 
Modern Collective T,S 
Mudskipper, The T,TR 
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt TR 
P&H T 
Pisces T,TR 
Psycho Jap S 
Shape Shifter S 
Silver Wings S 
Sirius T,TR 
Sleep Walker ArÍte, The S,TR 
Spider T,TR 
Summer 
Super Slab T,TR 
Super Vivid 
TRad Crack T,TR 
Twilight Singer T 
Wallow In The Hollow  T 
We Don't Toprope T 
Zeitgeist T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Chatfield Hollow Main Wall  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.36478, -72.59364 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 44,753
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Echoinfi on Oct 29, 2007
Forecast:
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Description 

Chatfield Hollow's Main Wall is the crown jewel of all the rope climbing in and around Chatfield State Park. People have been climbing here at the Main Wall since the early 1970's and new routes are still going up here today. The Main Wall at Chatfield has a good diversity routes in a beautiful hardwood forest setting. Chatfield's metamorphic gneiss rock is distinctively different from Central CT's trap rock. It has exquisitely featured grey and gritty overhanging walls, roofs, aretes, cracks, and slabs with a good mixture of grades for all climbers from a beginner climbing 5.3 to an expert climbing 5.13s. You will be amazed by the holds you have to use on the routes here: finger cracks, jugs, huge slopers, underclings, edges, pockets, and razor blade crimps.

What is unique here, unlike many other Connecticut climbing areas, is that all styles of climbing live in harmony here. You can climb traditional gear protected routes, mixed routes, or pure sport climbs. Chatfield is a great place to climb a lot of routes in a day. It is compact and there are a lot of good routes within a close space. Some great moderates include the Trad Crack, Clark Bar Crack, Kyles Corner, and Super Slab. If you are looking to test yourself check out the Anarchist, Zeitgeist, Shape Shifter, Cold Vein, Its Own Spirit or the massive link-up of the Modern Collective. All these routes are different and they all pack a unique style of punch from bouldery to technical. Last but definitely not least, the traditionally protected crack routes here are some of the best in the state. Routes like Forearm Frenzy and Wallow In the Hollow will test your knowledge of gear placement and your climbing talents. These routes are classics and should not be missed if you are able to climb them.

If new to the area and you are coming here for the first time bring a rope, some quick draws, and a standard rack with lots of small and medium cams. Be very carefully when you are walking on the delicate thin soils of the cliff top to set up your top ropes. Try as much as possible to tread lightly in this fragile environment. Walk on rock as much as possible. You will see some dead trees and battered vegetation and muddy trails from years of top-roping use/abuse. Walk on established trails or bare rock when you are setting up your anchors. Also please pick up any trash you might see on the way in or at the cliff. Let's keep Chatfield great for the next generation of climbers to come.

Getting There 

From Route 9 (Main cliff area): take Exit 9. Follow Route 81 south to Route 80 at the traffic circle, watch for park entrance signs on the right, drive a little farther, park on the left walk up the road 150yds past a little roadcut then head into the woods just before the guardrail (faint trail) head in cliff is less than 100yds away on the North side of the road.

From I-95: take Exit 63. Follow Route 81 north to Route 80 west, watch for park entrance signs on the right, drive a little farther, park on the left walk up the road 150yds past a little roadcut then head into the woods just before the guardrail (faint trail) head in cliff is less than 100yds away on North side of the road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.6 miles from here

38 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',5],['5.12',10],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chatfield Hollow Main Wall:
Clark Bar Crack   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Kyles Corner   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 50'   
Super Slab   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 70'   
TRad Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 40'   
P&H   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Food Pyramid   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, TR, 30'   
Sirius   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Spider   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 50'   
Jungle Face   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   
Marmalade   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Bloody Beetroots   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   
Forearm Frenzy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 90'   
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 55'   
Captain Moonlite   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Psycho Jap   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   
Wallow In The Hollow    5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 40'   
Shape Shifter   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 55'   
Dyno Problem   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     TR, 20'   
The Cold Vein    5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Chatfield Hollow Main Wall

Featured Route For Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Follow the yellow route.

Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Forearm Direct aka The Hollow Head Crew. This line starts 15' to climbers right of the Forearm Frenzy flake on some cool slopers and crimps and blasts up to a huge hanging jug in the middle of the wall. Finish straight up on Forearm Frenzy or the various Forearm finishes. This climb is very popular and the stronger locals will often "warm-up" on it in their Guide Tennies....[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Photos of Chatfield Hollow Main Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Jolt
BETA PHOTO: Jolt
Wallow in the Hollow First remarkable climb as you...
BETA PHOTO: Wallow in the Hollow First remarkable climb as you...
Forearm Frenzy Wall Photo: Nate Lambieniec
Forearm Frenzy Wall Photo: Nate Lambieniec
Left of the Wallow
BETA PHOTO: Left of the Wallow
Overhanging climbs at the far left end of the crag...
BETA PHOTO: Overhanging climbs at the far left end of the crag...
Right of the Z Wall
BETA PHOTO: Right of the Z Wall
Ryan Richitelli trying Modern Collective in not-so...
Ryan Richitelli trying Modern Collective in not-so...
The Z Wall upper section
BETA PHOTO: The Z Wall upper section
Clark Bar
BETA PHOTO: Clark Bar
The Z Wall Forearm Frenzy, Frenzy Direct
BETA PHOTO: The Z Wall Forearm Frenzy, Frenzy Direct
Trad Crack
BETA PHOTO: Trad Crack
Kyles Corner
BETA PHOTO: Kyles Corner
Chatfield hollow
Chatfield hollow
Right of P & H
BETA PHOTO: Right of P & H
Link-up Map
Link-up Map
Gneiss Face, Jungle Face
BETA PHOTO: Gneiss Face, Jungle Face
Park here on south side of Rt. 80
BETA PHOTO: Park here on south side of Rt. 80

Comments on Chatfield Hollow Main Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 31, 2014
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 3, 2008
Hey Ladd, you should talk to Whitey (John MacLain). We used to climb there many years ago and he put up a bunch of TR routes and will probably remember the names. Just to the left of Forearm Frenzy we put up a really nice 12c that Whitey called Shape Shifter that was really good. It starts out on crimpers, than has some slopey moves and a bit of a roof to the final headwall moves that I think ended with a dyno. It would be a classic lead route with a few bolts...someday. There are a bunch of other nice TR problems there as well as a few challenging crack leads.
By Toby
From: Jackson, WY
Jun 10, 2011
Rumor has it some bolts just got added to this area! Anyone have any idea which routes got bolted. When I climbed here years ago Ken Nichols was always there too and those bolts wouldn't have lasted long.
By Nick1984
Jun 11, 2011
Toby, I was there a couple weeks ago and saw the bolts going up the face and to the overhang directly left of Forearm Frenzy. Looked like glue-ins instead of threaded bolts...
By guy bon
Jun 23, 2011
wahoooo!...two new routes and a couple otherwise unprotectable .12s
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 3, 2011
Sweet! I always wanted to go back and bolt Shape Shifter
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Aug 26, 2011
+1 for bolting TR routes! Way to go boys!
By Miike
From: MA/CT border
Dec 6, 2011
I love a bolted route about 100 times more than a TR route.
By superkick
From: West Hartford, CT
Oct 8, 2012
yeah +1 for bolting TR routes...

should definitely tie more lines to trees for TRing and kill them isntead of bolting lifeless rock.
By erik rieger
From: Gold Hill, CO
Nov 20, 2012
I was just wondering why the decision was made to place glue-ins instead of expansion bolts here? Obviously the rock quality is entirely adequate for expansion bolts. Just wondering if this is the precedent for the area now. Thanks.
By Miike
From: MA/CT border
Nov 30, 2012
erik- unfortunately the quality of "trad" climbers in CT is not up to par of the other 49 states. nothing is normal here really. the bolts are trustworthy, just make sure nobody has tried to hacksaw through them before you clip and you may have to lift up some padlocks and clip underneath them while leading.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Dec 28, 2013
There are a few climbs here that were previously done on top-rope, e.g. Shape Shifter, and the first lead (after bolting) is listed as an "FFA." An FFA has always referred to a climb that was done with aid and when freed it was referred to as an FFA. Top-roping is free climbing so shouldn't the sport lead be called something like "first lead" or "FA (lead)" or something like that? Not a big deal but the nomenclature may be confused for a previous aid climb.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_as...
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Dec 30, 2013
It's good and important that you make the distinction Brian. For accuracy, Shape Shifter and Psycho Jap are the only two TR 'routes' that were bolted and maybe one could argue Hallow Head Crew but that's a variation. Lets be honest about the TR though... it's just Aid. Could have only taken a fraction of a lb of weight for an instant, but at that point it's aid ;-P Isn't that why Kenny always notes everything that was TR and not actually lead?
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Dec 30, 2013
Morgan,
Calling top-roping aid climbing is not in keeping with the generally accepted definition of aid climbing. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aid_clim... Under your definition you could call hang-doging on a rope while red pointing a route aid climbing. I would suspect that most of the bolted lines here were top-roped at one time or another and just not recorded anywhere. For example, I know that the Bloody Beetroots arete was top-roped back in the late 80s way before it was bolted. None by Ken that I know of but it wouldn't surprise me if Bob Clark, or Whitey MacLean and Marc Sprague didn't top-rope many of the routes here. Anyway, my point is, if you ask the vast majority of climbers what an FFA is they would tell you it is an aid climb that was freed not a top-rope climb that was later bolted and led. My 2 cents is I'd have, for example, Shape Shifter listed as FA (TR): John MacLean and Marc Sprague. FA (Lead): Greg Shyloski. Either way it isn't that important. Nobody is going to die by calling it a FFA.

Brian
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Dec 31, 2013
lighten up brian... i was poking fun. TR is aid.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Dec 31, 2013
Morgan, I guess I didn't get the tongue-in-cheek. Don't worry I never take these debates too seriously unless it involves a safety issue. It's just the rather silly pursuit of climbing up a rock.
By Ben Thesing
Mar 29, 2014
Hi all! I'm planning a trip here next weekend. I was wondering whether the towrope routes are off of trees, bolts or pro? How much webbing is recommended? Thank you!
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Mar 30, 2014
Ben,

I can't think of anyplace where you would need more than a couple of 20 ft lengths of webbing or >50 ft length of static rope except maybe for the easy slab (Super Slab). There are trees close to the top of the cliff just about everywhere. Some sport routes have bolted anchors that are down aways and out of reach from the top without ropeing up. Have fun.
By Ben Thesing
Mar 30, 2014
Greatly appreciated thank you!
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Apr 1, 2014
For climber impact reasons, try NOT to TR off any trees at Chatfield or the rest of CT for that matter. Please try leading to anchors for sport routes or lowering down and setting your rope on anchors and rapping from there. Only TR off trees if absolutely necessary.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
May 19, 2014
What do you figure the rating is on the new bolted route over the roof to the left of Trad Crack? I did it many years ago on top-rope but not recently. There was a pretty good chunk of rock pulled off right on the edge of the roof about ten years ago.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
May 20, 2014
What color route on the beta map brian? Sounds like you are talking about shape shifter, 12c.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
May 20, 2014
It is not marked on the photos. It is way left (north) of Shape Shifter. Not on main wall. It is the roof to the left of Trad Crack and Bolt and Jolt. Newly bolted.

Chatfield-Roof
Chatfield-Roof
By Frenchy11
Jul 31, 2014
New Climbing Partner
New Climbing Partner


I had some help with my ropes today right by super slab.

Guys just so you know this is not a rattler. It's an eastern hognose. Totally harmless he just eats frogs. Didn't want to startle anyone.