|Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Forearm Frenzy Wall.
Chatfield Hollow's Main Wall is the crown jewel of all the rope climbing in and around Chatfield State Park. People have been climbing here at the Main Wall since the early 1970's and new routes are still going up here today. The Main Wall at Chatfield has a good diversity routes in a beautiful hardwood forest setting. Chatfield's metamorphic gneiss rock is distinctively different from Central CT's trap rock. It has exquisitely featured grey and gritty overhanging walls, roofs, aretes, cracks, and slabs with a good mixture of grades for all climbers from a beginner climbing 5.3 to an expert climbing 5.13s. You will be amazed by the holds you have to use on the routes here: finger cracks, jugs, huge slopers, underclings, edges, pockets, and razor blade crimps.
What is unique here, unlike many other Connecticut climbing areas, is that all styles of climbing live in harmony here. You can climb traditional gear protected routes, mixed routes, or pure sport climbs. Chatfield is a great place to climb a lot of routes in a day. It is compact and there are a lot of good routes within a close space. Some great moderates include the Trad Crack, Clark Bar Crack, Kyles Corner, and Super Slab. If you are looking to test yourself check out the Anarchist, Zeitgeist, Shape Shifter, Cold Vein, Its Own Spirit or the massive link-up of the Modern Collective. All these routes are different and they all pack a unique style of punch from bouldery to technical. Last but definitely not least, the traditionally protected crack routes here are some of the best in the state. Routes like Forearm Frenzy and Wallow In the Hollow will test your knowledge of gear placement and your climbing talents. These routes are classics and should not be missed if you are able to climb them.
If new to the area and you are coming here for the first time bring a rope, some quick draws, and a standard rack with lots of small and medium cams. Be very carefully when you are walking on the delicate thin soils of the cliff top to set up your top ropes. Try as much as possible to tread lightly in this fragile environment. Walk on rock as much as possible. You will see some dead trees and battered vegetation and muddy trails from years of top-roping use/abuse. Walk on established trails or bare rock when you are setting up your anchors. Also please pick up any trash you might see on the way in or at the cliff. Let's keep Chatfield great for the next generation of climbers to come.
From Route 9 (Main cliff area): take Exit 9. Follow Route 81 south to Route 80 at the traffic circle, watch for park entrance signs on the right, drive a little farther, park on the left walk up the road 150yds past a little roadcut then head into the woods just before the guardrail (faint trail) head in cliff is less than 100yds away on the North side of the road.
From I-95: take Exit 63. Follow Route 81 north to Route 80 west, watch for park entrance signs on the right, drive a little farther, park on the left walk up the road 150yds past a little roadcut then head into the woods just before the guardrail (faint trail) head in cliff is less than 100yds away on North side of the road.
Browse More Classics in Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chatfield Hollow Main Wall:
5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Featured Route For Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
|Photos of Chatfield Hollow Main Wall Slideshow
BETA PHOTO: Wallow in the Hollow
First remarkable climb as you...
BETA PHOTO: Left of the Wallow
BETA PHOTO: Right of the Z Wall
BETA PHOTO: The Z Wall upper section
BETA PHOTO: The Z Wall
Forearm Frenzy, Frenzy Direct
BETA PHOTO: Kyles Corner
BETA PHOTO: Right of P & H
BETA PHOTO: Gneiss Face, Jungle Face
BETA PHOTO: Clark Bar
BETA PHOTO: Jolt
BETA PHOTO: Trad Crack
BETA PHOTO: Overhanging climbs at the far left end of the crag...
Forearm and Shape Shifter Wall
|Comments on Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Jan 3, 2008
Hey Ladd, you should talk to Whitey (John MacLain). We used to climb there many years ago and he put up a bunch of TR routes and will probably remember the names. Just to the left of Forearm Frenzy we put up a really nice 12c that Whitey called Shape Shifter that was really good. It starts out on crimpers, than has some slopey moves and a bit of a roof to the final headwall moves that I think ended with a dyno. It would be a classic lead route with a few bolts...someday. There are a bunch of other nice TR problems there as well as a few challenging crack leads.
From: Jackson, WY
Jun 10, 2011
Rumor has it some bolts just got added to this area! Anyone have any idea which routes got bolted. When I climbed here years ago Ken Nichols was always there too and those bolts wouldn't have lasted long.
Jun 11, 2011
Toby, I was there a couple weeks ago and saw the bolts going up the face and to the overhang directly left of Forearm Frenzy. Looked like glue-ins instead of threaded bolts...
|By guy bon|
Jun 23, 2011
wahoooo!...two new routes and a couple otherwise unprotectable .12s
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Jul 3, 2011
Sweet! I always wanted to go back and bolt Shape Shifter
Aug 26, 2011
+1 for bolting TR routes! Way to go boys!
|By Fall Guy|
Dec 6, 2011
I love a bolted route about 100 times more than a TR route.
From: West Hartford, CT
Oct 8, 2012
yeah +1 for bolting TR routes...
should definitely tie more lines to trees for TRing and kill them isntead of bolting lifeless rock.
|By erik rieger|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2012
I was just wondering why the decision was made to place glue-ins instead of expansion bolts here? Obviously the rock quality is entirely adequate for expansion bolts. Just wondering if this is the precedent for the area now. Thanks.
|By Fall Guy|
Nov 30, 2012
erik- unfortunately the quality of "trad" climbers in CT is not up to par of the other 49 states. nothing is normal here really. the bolts are trustworthy, just make sure nobody has tried to hacksaw through them before you clip and you may have to lift up some padlocks and clip underneath them while leading.