Connecticut

CT Climbing

Description 

Climbing in Connecticut dates back before the 1930’s when college outing clubs such as the Yale Mountaineering Club and the Appalachian Mountain Club were the on the edge with exploring these wild places to climb. The state is rich with classics, put up by legends such as Fritz Wiessner, John Reppy, Sam Streibert, Layton Kor, Henry Barber, and many other local heroes pushing the limits of free climbing.

The Central region of the state boasts the Traprock Ridge which contains gems like Ragged Mountain Main Cliff, East Peak, Pinnacle, CatHole and tons of smaller areas. This area also has great potential for bouldering near the climbing areas. The rock is basalt, a volcanic rock from ions ago. The texture is somewhat rough similar to bullet sandstone, but the sharp edges of the features offer a unique feel to the rock. There are as many face climbs as there are crack systems to climb in the area, perfect splitters are few and usually rounded off making for some interesting climbing.

The South Central region of Connecticut along the shoreline offers plenty of climbing opportunities. Most notable is Chatfield Hollow in Killingworth. The short approach, easy parking located on state land and a wide range of climbs, although few in comparison, make this a favorite quick fix destination for area climbers. You are treated to some quality granite gneiss here, overhanging faces and great cracks, well worth a visit if you’re in the area.

Bouldering can be found everywhere in Connecticut, there are glacial erratic boulders strewn across the state thanks to the second ice age. Mystic, Haddam, West Hartford, and New Haven offer noted bouldering areas. Hammonasset State Park has camping with facilities in a state beach park with some bouldering on the shore.

Climbing in Connecticut is awesome, even though we do not have the sweeping ridge lines of some of our western neighbors, the character of the climbing makes up for any lack of height. Crag height ranges from about 110 feet to 30 foot power climbs. The grading here seems to be stiff to some; many classics have been up since the 1930’s when a 5.7 was cutting edge! Many climbers find that the trad leads can be quite exhilarating, be warned that fixed protection is not always a given here so be ready! Top roping is common at all of the climbing areas; gear anchors are possible at most, long static rope or 1” webbing is usually the standard.

Currently there is only one guide book in print; The Falcon Guide- Rock Climbing Connecticut by David Fasulo, although there have been several other guide books published by the American Alpine Club and the Ragged Mountain Foundation which are out of print. There has not been a rush of first ascents so any guide book and this web page on Connecticut Climbing should be fine!

Connecticut Climbing 

This state has tons of climbing, strong ethics and all that information is too much for any one person to take on. Please contribute your experiences and knowledge, every contribution is appreciated.

Getting There 

Connecticut Climbing on Google Maps

The Traprock climbing areas can be accessed via I-84, and I-691.

Chatfield Hollow can be reached via I-95 or Route 80.

Sleeping Giant is located off I-91.

Also check out Connecticut Climbers and Mountaineers and The Ragged Mountain Foundation

The Classics

Featured Route For Connecticut

Thor's Hammer 5.9  CT : Central- Traprock : ... : Merimere Face

This route ascends the obvious stairstep dihedral on the Merimere Face. A Connecticut classic. Although obvious from the road below, this is somewhat tricky to find when approaching from the blue trail from the parking lot at the castle. Be sure to look at the landmarks around the climb as you drive up.Climb the relatively easy corner to the first roof, undercling left (crux), and continue up a wide crack through another smaller roof to the to...[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Photos of Connecticut Slideshow

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Near Hartford

Cat Crack, a Connecticut Classic