Sam Todzia catching some air and going for the lip...
Description
As the new admin to a state without a description I thought a quality one should be provided to describe to non-CT folks what CT climbing is all about, therefore I asked a lifetime CT climber to write a description of CT climbing to the best of his ability. This is what I received.
Alright, here's what I got for you:
Most of Connecticut’s rock climbing consists of the Traprock ridge that makes its way down the state, mainly from Hartford to New Haven. There are also a number of individual crags spread around the state that offer good climbing as well. Bouldering here is somewhat sparse, but good problems can be found at the developed areas. CT Climbs vary in height from 20 feet to over 100 feet and go anywhere from low class 5 up to 5.13. There are a lot of great beginner climbs and a ton of routes at the 5.8 - 5.10 level. New and visiting climbers might find it helpful to know that some people consider CT grades to be a little sandbagged. It is not uncommon to climb at a lower number grade in CT than in other states. Ragged Mountain’s, Main Cliff in Southington (southeast of Hartford) boasts well over 100 routes, including a number of classics, making it the most popular area in the state. Parking here is touchy and limited. Please use respect and carpool when available. All of the Traprock crags offer high quality crack and face climbing on beautiful orange rock. Climbers typically choose to top-rope most routes, though many can be adequately protected as leads. Face climbs tend not to offer frequent gear placements, making fall potential big and ground potential a possibility. Leading the Traprock consists of typically solid protection, with the occasional loose flake/block here and there. When attempting to lead an unfamiliar route, climbers might decide to ask a local/regular about any recent loose rock. Leaders should never assume fixed protection will be in place before getting on a climb, even if the piece/pin/bolt was there yesterday, it could be gone today. Fixed pro is a fickle subject in CT; any bolt placed will most likely find itself faithfully smashed/removed in a timely fashion. Top rope anchors can be made using protection, although sometimes requiring a little creativity. However, most will lug an extra static rope along to access the trees at the cliff tops. This can get heavy if you intend on setting up more than one climb at some crags, such as the main cliff, where trees can be as far as 50 or more feet back from the cliff edge. A minimum of 100 feet static rope or webbing is recommended. One should never use a single point anchor on any of these trees because they are typically fragile and sparse, if we kill them, you’ll need to lug even more static line. Perhaps, in another lifetime, fixed anchors will finally be considered acceptable and climbers and trees alike can rejoice!!
I thought about adding more about CT's "rich" history of ethical stubbornness, but I figured that if I did, then people might not take the description seriously. At the same time, CT climbing is pathetically trying to hold onto its past. There is no room for climbing to move forward to what it is today. High end sport climbing is not unavailable here, its just not allowed. Thats the reason there is nothing harder than the two 5.13s or so (that no ones climbing, by the way). I think climbers here are also scared that the sport will get more popular if it is allowed to develop into sport climbing. Maybe Ken Nichols is scarred people will forget about his achievements if people start zipping up 5.13s. He wants us to keep it like it was in his heyday in the 70's and 80's. Thing is...its not the 70's and 80's. Climbing has progressed! and while CT doesn't have a lot to offer, it has a lot of untapped potential. I guess I'm just hoping that because I'm gonna live here for the rest of my life, I'd like to be able to climb in the way that I love. Sort of a tease otherwise.
OK OK, I think I'm sort of preaching to the choir. At least if feels good to vent that crap a little. Thats the kind of thing I wanted to add in, but figured I shouldn't. Besides, its not what you asked for.
This state has tons of climbing, strong ethics and all that information is too much for any one person to take on. Please contribute your experiences and knowledge, every contribution is appreciated.
Getting There
Check a map, CT is a state, learn them, know them, and FYI telling a New Englander that "it is one of those small states up there" won't win you any friends.
Also check out This Download from ctclimbers.com that shows climbing areas on google earth.
Connecticut
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