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Is this route any good? Connect the pockets to find out (hint: it is).
Follow the trail from the parking lot down the stairs and to the left. Enter the big main canyon and its the second route (after the arete) on the face to your right. If there are plenty of pockets filled with daddy long leg spiders, you're in the right place.
Plenty of bolts and trees to build an anchor with. You can also top rope on the chains - just be polite and add your own biners to the end.