Mountain Project: Climbing Custer State Park

This climb starts at the high point between Aquarium rock and Icehouse rock. This is easily reached by scrambling uphill on the southwest side of the formation.

Pitch 1: Climb a right leaning crack/flake to an obvious large ledge on the south side.

Pitch 2: Traverse right to reach a low angle chimney. If you're squeemish, this traverse can be protected by a medium nut and/or alien. When you get to the chimney, climb the face placing pro in the chimney when possible. Another ledge is reached at which a belay can be set if desired. Otherwise, traverse to the right again and head up when the climbing looks easy. This last section is runout but the climbing is very easy.

Descent: Getting off the top requires a short downclimb to the east to reach a ledge with rappel bolts. A single rope will just get you to the ground on the north side of the rock.

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By Anonymous Coward
Dec 7, 2002

Rap anchors are scary to get to! You may want to be on belay to get to them or rap to the anchors.

By Tyson S Arp
Dec 14, 2002

I agree about the anchors. We tied of a big nob in order to belay down to the rap. It's worth noting there is some fun toproping below the rap anchor (or lead climbing if your BOLD!). Just don't get in the way of others who might want to descend from the top.

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 14, 2002

The top toping that is referred to is actually an old route that is known as "The Pump" since all good aquiriums have a pump. As you rappel down look toyour right at a small seam you will see an old ring iron piton.

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 22, 2004

Actually, a 50 meter rope will still get you to the ground, a little rope stretch and a little push to swing yourself in the uphill direction and your toes should touch the ground.

Isn't it amazing that someone was able to do this without the consensus of the coalition!?

By john walker
Dec 29, 2004

I would like to thank whoever placed the new anchors at the top of the first pitch of garfield goes to Washington. The issue of the BHCC being responsible for anchors on aquarium needs to be addressed. I was actually at a BHCC meeting last month, the aquarium issue came up and although there was discussion I can not say with any certainty who is responsible. There are anchors out there that need replacing. This could be the common thread that serves to unify the many different climbers in this region. I personally am for replacing aged and outdated anchors in the needles. I've heard of a new orginazation founded in the hills with intentions to educate and inform interested parties, work with land managers to preserve and protect climbing for the future. Anyone with information should post on this site.

Feather Buttress anyone?

By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Apr 2, 2007

Fun climb! Would consider doing it in 3 pitches next time to get rid of the terrible rope drag after the "chimney" on the second pitch.

By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Jul 8, 2007
rating: 5.3

I agree 3 pitches is way to go to avoid rope drag. Thanks a bundle to whomever put in the new anchors.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Jul 9, 2008
rating: 5.5

Fantastic route. This was my one and only route in Custer State Park and would highly recommend it. My wife and I split it into 3 pitches and were up and down in less than an hour late one afternoon in mid-June.

By Mark Orsag
May 2, 2013
rating: 5.5

From the interesting start to the pools on top teaming with life, this is a unique climb!

Conn Route

5.3

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