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 ADVANCED
Wreckage Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anonymous Coward S 
Bionic Bitch Slap S 
Confusion Tactics S 
Destructomatic S 
Handy Capable S 
Howler Monkey S 
Hunger Pains S 
Invisible Flying Gargoyles S 
Local Yokel S 
Mr. Whipple's Wild Ride S 
Obliteration Divine S 
Tail Gate Party S 
Ticks Dig Me S 
Triathlon S 
Wingman S 

Confusion Tactics 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Aaron Rough
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,129
Submitted By: Rough on Aug 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Aaron Rough on the first ascent of Confusion Tacti...

Temporary Closure includes Wreckage Wall and Twin Towers MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start below the left facing corner / left border of the large overhang. Up an easy slab to a shallow corner that becomes more prominent and more overhung the higher you go. The crux guards a nice rail and a no hands rest at the apex of the overhang. From there, an easy romp up to the anchors.

Location 

Left side of the main overhang on the Wreckage Wall. This is the route just right of Howler Monkey.

Protection 

7 bolts


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By Vlad S
Feb 23, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Generally ok route, except for the bolt after the crux being about 4 feet too far left. Makes it impossible to not have your feet behind the rope and increases the likelyhood of flipping over in case you pull some megachoss at the top and take the plunge. Also watch out for the choss-hedral before the crux. Relatively big chunk broke out when my partner touched it with her foot. Helmets are mandatory!
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 23, 2015

Everyone cries about that bolt placement but it's in the only spot that had good rock and isn't hollow.
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