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Watchtower Tiers
Routes Sorted
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Condor S 
Conflict S 
Dehumanized T,S 
Drunk Punk Oi S 
Grommet S 
Imperial S 
Scratchin' for the Loomer S 
Steel Reserve T 
Total Ramon T,S 
Uncensored Society S 
Unknown S 

Conflict 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: G. Martinez and L.Douglas 5/28/04
Page Views: 2,109
Submitted By: glen kaplan on Aug 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Conflict - Ferguson Canyon > The Watc...

Description 

Longish, steep and juggy, open-handed climb that ends on anchors above 'Steel Reserve'


Location 

just up the slope to (newly) leveled area...about 20-30 ft. uphill from 'Total Ramon' and 50-60 ft. uphill from 'Fortress' flat spot...


Protection 

11 bolts + anchors



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 26, 2013
By Dave Budge
From: Trashcanistan
Aug 14, 2007

5.11a

By JimG
Sep 16, 2007

Very good route. hard for 10d, I would tend to agree with 11a.

By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 24, 2008

The grade depends on how you tackle it. If you directly climb the crack sections, it's a gritty task. If you wend your way around using face holds and side options, it's legit 10d.

By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 25, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Amazing moves through the first few bolts. Very good indeed!

By jonathan knight
Jun 28, 2009

Great gear lead for some added value.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 1, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Some wind gust recently uprooted/broke a large tree that was sitting by the leveled base. The whole area is sliding away and there's a large block that wants to go. Tiptoe around this place for a while, when the roots finally let go and that rock starts moving it won't stop until it reaches the stream.

Good route, long reaches to good holds and funky moves around the crack.
Bolts everywhere.

By Alec
Sep 27, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

My partner and I both thought this was a bit soft for 5.10d. There are plenty of rests all the way up. Unfortunately it's a bit overbolted.

By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 27, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

great climbing, solid moves, and ridiculously overbolted.

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Sep 19, 2011

Fun. 10d is probably accurate, though that crack section is a bit strenuous and awkward. I try not to complain about routes being overbolted as there are so many routes elsewhere I wish had more.(LCC)

By benjaminleaton
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 2, 2012

The climb is great and all, but my reason for giving it four starts is due to the height of the route. This one towers over all the others for single pitch...a true pitch compared to all the other 20 foot routes. I also like that you can lead it on trad if you so desired.

By Sam Miller
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 12, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Really good. I feel it's a solid .10d. And the people complaining about the overbolting need to get over it. If you feel there are too many bolts, then don't clip them. In fact do it trad or even solo it. But, the close bolts make the climb way more accessible to a lot of people that would otherwise never get to experience this beautiful line.

By notmyname
From: Stony Brook, NY
Jun 26, 2013

bring a wrench and hammer - the bolts are oriented poorly (holes face down) and could result in breaking a biner or backclipping. besides that, stellar route