Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Thumb
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brace Y'self aka Pin Job T,S 
Center Slot T 
Confines of Power S 
Descent Route T 
Epic Sushi Party S 
Konichiwa S 
Left Center T 
Mind Over Matter T 
Never Mind, It Doesn't Matter T 
North Overhangs T 
Opposable Distraction T,S 
Pigeon Perch T,S 
Pixie, The S 
Rest in Peace S 
Right Center T 
Rooftop Rodeo S 
South Ridge of the Thumb T 
Sucker Punch S 
Thumb Up My Arse T,S 
Thumb's Up S 
Uphill Cracks T 
Vapor Trail S 
Zig Arete S 

Confines of Power 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Stuemke and Hurst
Page Views: 383
Submitted By: Nathan Welton on May 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Technical 5.11- face climbing leads to a short section of reachy, overhung moves at the top, before a final massive deadpoint to a jug next to the chains. Shorter people may wind up using a left hand intermediate pinch to get through the crux. It is a great climb for the area.

Location 

This is on the North face of The Thumb, just left of North Overhangs and just right of the Zig Arete. This route goes straight up. If you branch right halfway up, you'll find yourself on Vapor Trail, at 5.12+.

Protection 

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with lowering biners.


Comments on Confines of Power Add Comment
Show which comments
By goatboywonder
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

With some fancy tricks, you can do the crux reach without a dyno (well, assuming you are 6' tall). This would be really tough for short people. I broke off a rock down low near the second bolt, so be careful down there. If the rock on the first 15 feet was a bit better, I would give this 4 stars.

Also, it is well-protected, so don't be afraid to give it a burn if it is at your limit.