Confines of Power
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Technical 5.11- face climbing leads to a short section of reachy, overhung moves at the top, before a final massive deadpoint to a jug next to the chains. Shorter people may wind up using a left hand intermediate pinch to get through the crux. It is a great climb for the area.
This is on the North face of The Thumb, just left of North Overhangs
and just right of the Zig Arete
. This route goes straight up. If you branch right halfway up, you'll find yourself on Vapor Trail
, at 5.12+.
7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with lowering biners.
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
With some fancy tricks, you can do the crux reach without a dyno (well, assuming you are 6' tall). This would be really tough for short people. I broke off a rock down low near the second bolt, so be careful down there. If the rock on the first 15 feet was a bit better, I would give this 4 stars.
Also, it is well-protected, so don't be afraid to give it a burn if it is at your limit.