Technical 5.11- face climbing leads to a short section of reachy, overhung moves at the top, before a final massive deadpoint to a jug next to the chains. Shorter people may wind up using a left hand intermediate pinch to get through the crux. It is a great climb for the area.
This is on the North face of The Thumb, just left of North Overhangs and just right of the Zig Arete. This route goes straight up. If you branch right halfway up, you'll find yourself on Vapor Trail, at 5.12+.
7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with lowering biners.
|Comments on Confines of Power
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
With some fancy tricks, you can do the crux reach without a dyno (well, assuming you are 6' tall). This would be really tough for short people. I broke off a rock down low near the second bolt, so be careful down there. If the rock on the first 15 feet was a bit better, I would give this 4 stars.
Also, it is well-protected, so don't be afraid to give it a burn if it is at your limit.