Conejo Mountain Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Mystery Science Theater site overview
The short, pumpy routes on the edgey volcanic rock here range from steep to slab. There are a few classic routes that should be considered relatively clean but for the most part expect choss and bring an helmet. The location itself is beautiful in its own way. Beautiful sunsets are year round and the Oxnard flood plain is visible from the anchors of most climbs.
While the area is technically a sport climbing destination, the rock quality is not good and loose blocks abound. Exercise caution when choosing which routes to lead. Nearly all routes can be approached from the ridge above and are easily top roped.
Hot in summer, cool in winter. Spring and fall are downright nice. Waiting 48 hours after rainfall is generally the accepted practice here.
The approaches listed previously (parking from the end of Old Conejo, the RV home park) are all trespassing. Don't use them, there is a trailhead but it's about a 25 minute walk. From Hwy 101 in Newbury Park, exit Wendy Drive. Go west on Old Conejo Road, which parallels the freeway. Turn left on Reino then right on Lesser. Follow into the residential then turn left. Park before the fire hydrant and trailhead is tucked in between the houses to your left.
Climbing Season For the Central Coast area.
Weather station 3.3 miles from here
28 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Conejo Mountain
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Conejo Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Conejo Mountain:
Featured Route For Conejo Mountain
9 V1 5 CA
: Central Coast
: ... : *Conejo Mtn Boulders*
''In my opinion the gem of the area. SDS on a weird thumbdercling with your left (look for a chalk dot from one's thumb for a clue) and a reach to a slightly better than sloper ledge with your right. Get your feet on and go directly up the overhang until you can top out using the flat right side of top. Committing to the thin slab on the left after the SDS is still a project. Great rock. Prowler, V1''...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Conejo Mountain trailhead, on Lesser. Hike up bet...
One of the sites along the trail to Mystery Scienc...
Marisa Fienup climbs "the Beginning of the En...
Hike clock-wise around the neighborhood on an obvi...
Getting close to the crag.
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 15, 2006
The routes here are short, I mean, REALLY short. It's easy to tick a dozen routes in a few hours. In general, the rock quality is fairly poor, although The Beginning of the End is quite good. Worth visiting once or twice, but certainly not a destination area.
Sep 16, 2009
There are some serious access issues with Mystery Science Theater. It is currently impossible to access the cliffs without trespassing on private property. The residents have made it abundantly clear they are tired of trespassers. In light of the overall poor quality of the routes- I'd recommend avoiding it.
By Ally McBeal
May 30, 2013
That is really sad, but the rock isn't that good and as Mike indicated the routes are short.
By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Jun 23, 2013
It is technically trespassing to walk through the trailer park to access the approach trail. Over the years, I have experienced a wide range of responses from locals. Once, I received a warning from a security guard and told not to return. On several occasions, I have been invited in to a resident's trailer for iced tea.