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Routes in The Taco
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Bandito T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Conejito S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Holy Frijoles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Horchata T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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La Cruz de la Norte S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Leapin' Leaner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Molé Poblano S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nacho Libre T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Mas S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Not a Taco S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Taco Chip T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Taco Supreme S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Taco Time T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Vote for Pedro S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Dale Ralphs? |
| Page Views: | 727 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Nov 18, 2015 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
A fun jaunt in a more secluded location on the Taco.
A gritty start in/near a corner with a bolt a ways off the deck leads to a low angle slab to a steep finish.
Take care getting to the first bolt. Low angle but a tumble a ways off the ground might not be fun.
Low angle slab with a couple of bolts. Steeper finish on fun edges to a change in character to pure friction below the anchor.
Take care on the steeper bit...rock is good, edges are crispy, but, with that much rope out a short fall could land you on the low angle slab.
Don't lower off this route with a 60m rope! Tie a knot in the blunt end! Route can be CAREFULLY rappelled with a 60m rope with no extra, but, since the route wanders a bit, lowering would be not recommended.
A gritty start in/near a corner with a bolt a ways off the deck leads to a low angle slab to a steep finish.
Take care getting to the first bolt. Low angle but a tumble a ways off the ground might not be fun.
Low angle slab with a couple of bolts. Steeper finish on fun edges to a change in character to pure friction below the anchor.
Take care on the steeper bit...rock is good, edges are crispy, but, with that much rope out a short fall could land you on the low angle slab.
Don't lower off this route with a 60m rope! Tie a knot in the blunt end! Route can be CAREFULLY rappelled with a 60m rope with no extra, but, since the route wanders a bit, lowering would be not recommended.
Location
Located over the large block to the north of La Cruz and Holy Frijoles (on the right side of the east face).
There are currently two routes on the far right end of the East Face of the Taco: Conejito on the left, and No Mas (no anchor too apparently) on the right.
Approach by aiming for the far right side of the face and take the small social trail to the low angle slabs below the route.
There are currently two routes on the far right end of the East Face of the Taco: Conejito on the left, and No Mas (no anchor too apparently) on the right.
Approach by aiming for the far right side of the face and take the small social trail to the low angle slabs below the route.
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