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 ADVANCED
Watchtower Tiers
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Condor S 
Conflict S 
Dehumanized T,S 
Drunk Punk Oi S 
Grommet S 
Imperial S 
Scratchin' for the Loomer S 
Steel Reserve T 
Total Ramon T,S 
Uncensored Society S 
Unknown S 

Condor 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Drew Bedford, Aug. '08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,381
Submitted By: drewford on Sep 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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The MA floating the crux on Condor.

Description 

Really a variation to Uncensored Society. Climb to the first bolt on that route and then go straight right to the Condor crux. Surmounting that move puts the leader in a small right-facing corner. Follow this feature for four more bolts before rejoining Uncensored Society.

NOTE: the route name - depending on your wingspan, the grade could vary a great deal. Props and thanks to Kelley Bethea for being a big part of this route's creation.


Location 

Right of Uncensored Society and left of Drunk Punk Oi.


Protection 

Bolts.



Photos of Condor Slideshow Add Photo
The joys of the onsight: finding out that your greasy partners left a nice layer of fat on the crux holds and having to resort to the brush mid-sequence.
The joys of the onsight: finding out that your gre...
Photoshop stitch-together. Lots of foreshortening, but you get the idea.
BETA PHOTO: Photoshop stitch-together. Lots of foreshortening,...
Comments on Condor Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 22, 2013
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Sep 16, 2008

Not having this reference, we started this route down low and right of the first bolt. This seemed like the natural start. It uses some holds on Dehumanizing but stays left, so the moves are different--5.11-ish. We also finished up the crack, which seemed a bit more "straight up". The crux is still the crux, but this makes the route a bit more interesting.

By T_jones
From: Salty Lake
May 20, 2010

This route is not 5.12. It has one move of 5.11+ in it and the rest is easy

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 21, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The crux is V3 hence the rating. Sustained it is not.

By Nicholas Yaskoff
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I'd have to agree that starting slightly right of the first bolt then finishing on the crack on Dehumanized seems more straight forward and keeps the climber more engaged. You can also go straight up under the first bolt which adds a few moves to the crux. The crux is probably V4 like Boissal said and indeed the route is not sustained at that grade. If you finish up on Dehumanized you can expect another red point crux at the top. No matter how you slice it the route is fun.

By grego
From: SLC, Utah
Jul 21, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

I would definitely recommend going right to dehumanized. Otherwise it just has one hard problem, followed by easy 5.10 climbing. If you link it with dehumanized it is much more consistent.

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Sep 19, 2011

Fun route. Easy 12a tick. Proceed as follows: lunge to crappy hold, bump to good hold, jugfest to top. Lurpy long fellows will find it easier.

By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Jun 15, 2012

Tried this one out today and it's definitely soft for 12a but still an amazing route. Even above the crux the climbing stays fun with a sweet move to the chains.

By Reedrombo
From: Nationwide Dirtbag
Jun 17, 2012

If you have the opportunity to stick clip it, going straight up using the shitty sloping side pill and lunging for the right crimp then moving up throughout the actual crux makes it a significantly better route, the move below the first bolt is harder than the actual crux, but I'd still call it a 12.

By Sam Miller
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 12, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I did several variations of this today. Coming in from 'uncensured society' is by far the easiest. Coming in from 'dehumanized' is a little harder. But the direct start is definitely the business (really hard, way harder than the supposed crux). The crux that everyone is referring to is not v4, it's maybe v3, but probably v2. Go boulder in LCC and tell me that moves feels v4. I would say this line is probably 5.11b(unless you do the direct start, then it would probably be in the hard 5.12 range). But the line indicated on the photo is significantly easier than Drunk Punk Oi.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Maybe this needs to be cross-posted on 8a.nu so every beater out there looking to tick their first 12a can maximize their chances on a real gimme line? There's a real sandbagged 11d down the hill that you should all get on. Make sure to post outraged comments about the real difficulty...

By James Yates
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

To each his own, but in MHO this climb is 5.12-, though it is not sustained what so ever. The single hard move on this climb was harder for me than anything on Fuego, which is just up canyon. I am 5'8" with no ape index and it was a heroic reach for me.

By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I agree that it is not sustained at all, I thought the climbing above the crux was in the 10 range, harder than uncensored society to the left. That being said, depending on your height the crux can be quite difficult. I think calling it mid or soft 11 is definitely sandbagging it. I am not great at rating things, but if I compare it to other boulder problems I have done, I would say it is harder than standard overhang V3 and is more like smiley right V4 if you wanna compare it to LCC bouldering. Regardless it is super fun!