Condor 

Not having this reference, we started this route down low and right of the first bolt. This seemed like the natural start. It uses some holds on Dehumanizing but stays left, so the moves are different--5.11-ish. We also finished up the crack, which seemed a bit more "straight up". The crux is still the crux, but this makes the route a bit more interesting.

This route is not 5.12. It has one move of 5.11+ in it and the rest is easy

The crux is V3 hence the rating. Sustained it is not.

I'd have to agree that starting slightly right of the first bolt then finishing on the crack on Dehumanized seems more straight forward and keeps the climber more engaged. You can also go straight up under the first bolt which adds a few moves to the crux. The crux is probably V4 like Boissal said and indeed the route is not sustained at that grade. If you finish up on Dehumanized you can expect another red point crux at the top. No matter how you slice it the route is fun.

I would definitely recommend going right to dehumanized. Otherwise it just has one hard problem, followed by easy 5.10 climbing. If you link it with dehumanized it is much more consistent.

Fun route. Easy 12a tick. Proceed as follows: lunge to crappy hold, bump to good hold, jugfest to top. Lurpy long fellows will find it easier.

Tried this one out today and it's definitely soft for 12a but still an amazing route. Even above the crux the climbing stays fun with a sweet move to the chains.

If you have the opportunity to stick clip it, going straight up using the shitty sloping side pill and lunging for the right crimp then moving up throughout the actual crux makes it a significantly better route, the move below the first bolt is harder than the actual crux, but I'd still call it a 12.

I did several variations of this today. Coming in from 'uncensured society' is by far the easiest. Coming in from 'dehumanized' is a little harder. But the direct start is definitely the business (really hard, way harder than the supposed crux). The crux that everyone is referring to is not v4, it's maybe v3, but probably v2. Go boulder in LCC and tell me that moves feels v4. I would say this line is probably 5.11b(unless you do the direct start, then it would probably be in the hard 5.12 range). But the line indicated on the photo is significantly easier than Drunk Punk Oi.

Maybe this needs to be cross-posted on 8a.nu so every beater out there looking to tick their first 12a can maximize their chances on a real gimme line? There's a real sandbagged 11d down the hill that you should all get on. Make sure to post outraged comments about the real difficulty...

To each his own, but in MHO this climb is 5.12-, though it is not sustained what so ever. The single hard move on this climb was harder for me than anything on Fuego, which is just up canyon. I am 5'8" with no ape index and it was a heroic reach for me.