Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | ...give me a day, gotta check the book... |
Page Views: | 1,438 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | rpc on Mar 25, 2008 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This is a decent (gets 2 out of 4 stars in Watts' guidebook) traditional route in a sea of new bolted lines. As such, I don't think it sees much traffic. Though there is some loose rock on it, the hard climbing is all done on solid stone and with good pro.
Climb the right hand of two cracks (sharp finger locks & likely the crux of route) to roof with a nice hand crack through it. Pull the roof and move up onto a ledge system (1 old bolt). Scramble 10 feet up and follow the left side squeeze chimney (watch the teetering 300-lb block at base of chimney) formed by a huge inverted spire of rock (fixed nut deep inside). Belay from 2 bolts.
Climb the right hand of two cracks (sharp finger locks & likely the crux of route) to roof with a nice hand crack through it. Pull the roof and move up onto a ledge system (1 old bolt). Scramble 10 feet up and follow the left side squeeze chimney (watch the teetering 300-lb block at base of chimney) formed by a huge inverted spire of rock (fixed nut deep inside). Belay from 2 bolts.
Location
Just left of the new bolted line called Blackened - see that route page for a nice overview photo.
The route is located about 100 feet right of where the East Wall (5.8X) starts or just around the corner to the right of the wide crack (high up) that is pitch 2 of East Wall. Look for two cracks 4 feet apart going to a roof 25 feet up in bright tan-colored rock. If you don't know where the classic ;) East Wall starts, it's well right of Phoenix Buttress.
The route is located about 100 feet right of where the East Wall (5.8X) starts or just around the corner to the right of the wide crack (high up) that is pitch 2 of East Wall. Look for two cracks 4 feet apart going to a roof 25 feet up in bright tan-colored rock. If you don't know where the classic ;) East Wall starts, it's well right of Phoenix Buttress.
0 Comments