Condones 5.12b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Eli Helmuth, 2004 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Eli Helmuth on Aug 20, 2004 |
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Steve pulling the final crux on Condones.
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This all naturally protected route is a direct start to the almost forgotten multi-pitch route "Boots of Spanish Rubber" established by Kimball and Suzuki in 1984. It starts from the ground just left of the Central Chimney in a small, left-facing dihedral which turns left into an undercling roof. After passing the roof on the left, it traverses right on a thin crack (#2 TCU) to reach the flakes where Boots has its 5.11 crux for a few feet. This section of Boots is rated 11 R but protects well with small cams and nuts, although it is an insecure place to stop and place gear. The route traverses left above the flakes to the bolt placed for a belay on Riders on the Storm. This bolt was replaced and given a ring hanger which is equalized with a large nut in the crack just above to make a two piece anchor for this one-pitch test piece.
Protection Cams from #3 Camalot to #2 TCU are helpful, and this route is a sew-up if wanted.
BETA PHOTO: The Owls West face routes.
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Steve at the first crux.
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Buster Jesik about to bust a move through the fina...
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Buster J. high stepping into the upper "Spanish B...
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By Roy Leggett
Jul 28, 2005
rating: 5.12a/b PG13
| This is a great addition to Twin Owls. [Don't] underestimate it, it packs a punch. The gear is good....but you need to know where to place it. My belayer was telling me if the gear in the layback/ undercling flake was good because I [couldn't] really see it. Also, save a green alien for the traverse between the two cracks. |
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