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Conditions/beta for Forbidden Peak

Original Post
John Guy · · Vancouver, Washington · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 15

I was wondering if anyone knows conditions or has any approach/descent beta for the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. I'm having trouble finding info in guidebooks so anything would help, coming from a new alpine climber. Thanks guys!

Marlin Thorman · · Spokane, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 2,415

Pretty good info here with plenty of pictures. summitpost.org/west-ridge/1…

George Bell · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 5,050

Here is my experience (extracted from here).

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Despite overnight drizzle, we got an early start. Loading our packs with a bare minimum of gear, we followed a muddy path that quickly rose through the fog to timberline. Visibility was limited to a few hundred yards. We were nearing the crux of our ascent: finding the mountain.

"You mean you didn't even bring the map!" I said, referring to our state highway map. "How are we supposed to find this crazy peak?"

"No problem," explained Don, "we'll follow the most obvious path. Hundreds of people must have climbed it last weekend."

Before long we were totally lost. Trails led all over the place. We sat down, hoping the fog would lift.

Hours went by, and although our lunch disappeared, the fog did not. Our only hope lay in finding some other climbers. Evidently, this route did not get the traffic we had expected. I spotted what looked like a guided group, starting self-arrest practice at the base of a snowfield, and approached the leader.

"Say, you wouldn't happen to know where Forbidden Peak is?"

He pointed to the other side of the basin we were in.

"So, to do the west ridge, we would go to the right of that buttress that goes up into the fog?"

"Yep, but I wouldn't try it," he said. "The couloir's blocked by an impassable 'schrund."

Despite the guide's warning, the rest of the climb went easily, once we had located it. A lucky break in the clouds revealed the couloir leading to the ridge, and I was surprised to see we would have to traverse a glacier to reach it. I had not expected one on the south side of the peak and so had not brought my sunglasses. A line of footsteps appeared, and I led across the glacier squinting at them. They led, sure enough, right up to an impassable bergschrund. I had a headache by now and stepped left onto some rocks to reduce the glare. After Don led up through the rock beside the couloir, we were able to unrope and quickly move up the rest of the route.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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