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Conditions at Spearhead and Long's Peak
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By EugeneK
From Cambridge, MA
Jul 1, 2013

Heading out to CO for the first time next week and planning on visting Spearhead and Long's Peak. How are the conditions this time of year - will I need traction, axes for the approach and descent?


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By WadeM
Jul 1, 2013
Ultimate Squeeze

Longs Peak - June 30, 2013
Longs Peak - June 30, 2013


Longs is good to go. North Chimney is wet, but easily climbable for the approach


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By acouncell
From Estes Park, CO
Jul 2, 2013

Spearhead is also dry. A light axe could be useful to ascend the final 100' of snow to gain the actual rock (depending on which route you're doing, ie Barb/Sykes) or you may choose to risk scratching up with a nut tool in one hand and sharp rock in the other. Slip-and-falls on steep snow are the #1 reason for Colorado SAR to get called out and is a crappy way to curtail your climbing season. More than one person has slipped on the steep snow gaining the N. Chimney on Longs and broken bones in the ensuing fall.

Elsewhere on Longs, snow gear is nice for the N. Face and Keyhole but it's possible to get to the summit via Keyhole right now by staying on rock if the water doesn't refreeze into verglass. Good luck!


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By wfscot
From Boulder, CO
Jul 2, 2013

To add to acouncell's post, my partner and I climbed the Cable Route last Tuesday (6/25). There was plenty of snow travel above the Boulder field. The technical section had some ice (verglass as well as some thicker stuff) and water in the morning on ascent and was a gushing stream on descent (around 1pm). Lots of ice under the snow, too, which made for some slippery conditions once the snow softened. We used crampons for most of the climb and mountain axes for the snow travel but kept the tech tools on the packs as there was plenty to grab onto.

FWIW, we saw several groups go through the Keyhole that day only to turn around shortly thereafter. From what we heard, there was still enough snow to make it scary. From the looks of it, things were melting pretty quickly, though. I wouldn't be surprised if it's dry now.

View of the North Face on Long's Peak (Cable Route) from the Boulderfield on 6/25/2013.
View of the North Face on Long's Peak (Cable Route) from the Boulderfield on 6/25/2013.


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By dameeser
From denver
Jul 2, 2013
Vanagon

This is spear head as of yesterday. There is some seepage but most of the routes are dry.


Spearhead.
Spearhead.


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By Mark Pilate
Jul 10, 2013

Wfscot - You didn't happen upon my nest of cams about a pitch above the top bolt didja? Left 2 camalots and a nut the Sunday before your climb (paid the price for a good deed in helping another team descend the snow).


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By wfscot
From Boulder, CO
Jul 10, 2013

Mark Pilate wrote:
Wfscot - You didn't happen upon my nest of cams about a pitch above the top bolt didja? Left 2 camalots and a nut the Sunday before your climb (paid the price for a good deed in helping another team descend the snow).


Mark, I sadly did not. We went left pretty quickly after topping out on the technical section.

Sorry man! I would have loved to help you out.


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By Anfarwal
From Denver, CO
Jul 12, 2013
Approach to Whitney

Anyone know if Broadway looked dry on Longs? Or how lambs couloir looked like? Thanks


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By Mark Pilate
Jul 12, 2013

Anfarwal- Broadway has to be in great shape as the low path was relatively dry and easy at end of June.

I'd imagine Lamb's is getting pretty hard and icy about now. It was perfect neve near end of June.


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By Bret Rhinesmith
Jul 13, 2013

Upper Lamb's Slide.
Upper Lamb's Slide.


Broadway in bloom.
Broadway in bloom.


Notch Couloir.
Notch Couloir.


Lamb's Slide from Chasm View.
Lamb's Slide from Chasm View.

Lamb's Slide was in good condition on 11 Jul 2013 with no glacier ice showing yet and no rocks melting out. It was really warm, so conditions may change rapidly. We did not rope up nor put in any protection while ascending Lamb's slide. Broadway was dry to the Notch Coulior with some meltwater from the snowfield.


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By Mark Pilate
Jul 15, 2013

Hate to keep beating this horse, but Bret, assuming you descended the North Face, you didn't find any cams roughly a pitch above the top bolt did you?


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By slim
Administrator
Jul 15, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

probably want a raincoat....


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By Anfarwal
From Denver, CO
Jul 15, 2013
Approach to Whitney

Thanks guys! Yeah, didn't go because of weather this past weekend. Hopefully it will still be ok in the next few weeks.


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By Bret Rhinesmith
Jul 15, 2013

Mark, looked but didn't see any cams. Sorry.


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