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Conditional Reality
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 5
votes
Routes in (8) Golden Valley
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Around the Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Aus der Traum S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Black & Tan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Faced Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Black Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Magic Woman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Conditional Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Convenient S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dragon's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dragon's Nose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dripping Dragon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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I Love Taiwan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Inconvenient S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kevlar Vest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Latex Cap T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Never S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nugget T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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One Fine Sunny Day T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Quartzriss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Real Legend, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stay on the Dragon's Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stephen's Size 13 Shoes S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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String Bikini T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Teamwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thierry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Very Inconvenient S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Warm-up 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Warm-up 2 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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White-Faced Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Yosemite Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | Yum-Yum, '91 |
| Page Views: | 676 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Sep 29, 2013 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Description
Start around a jumble of boulders, with a large platform up and to your right. Get up into the coral-like rock however you wish, and pull simple moves up into the roof. Pulling over the roof is easy, using jugs in the horizontal. Try to clip from this. The bolt sits almost flat above the triangular block, so use a long draw or a sling. Getting around the lip is the crux: it can be done a number of ways, all of them involving a balancy sequence. One way is to throw for a pebble at the top of the block, then step left. Prepare yourself for an overhanging sequence on big rails that is pumpy and athletic though straightforward. A few big final moves and you're at the horizontal from which you can clip the anchor.
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