Condescender 5.11a R
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Howard Peterson & Dave Tibbetts, July 1977. Second pitch added by Jeff Burns & Steve Schneider. |
| Submitted By: | David Aguasca! on Jun 17, 2009 |
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Description The sustained, tenuous friction climbing on this one will leave your noggin tired, if nothing else. The rock is superb, and the crux is well-protected. I put the R rating for the runout up top, where the rock quality is a bit poorer and the protection scarce, but the climbing is easier, maybe 5.9 or so.
Hard friction takes you straight off the ground to the first bolt, which you'll pass diagonalling right to the sloping horizontal ramp. Clip the next bolt, traverse right to the end of the ramp, and figure out how to use the few holds you have to make it straight up to a stance at the third bolt, just up and left. From there you can traverse left to the right leaning flake system which offers a bit of protection.
Continue up and left, pretty far above the last piece of pro you have...once you've mantled onto the more secure ground of the left facing flake, you can scamper up to an alcove where you can set up a belay with a bolt and two horns.
Location Locate the buttress in the middle of the slabs on the right (north) end of Cannon. Smack in the middle is a line of three bolts on gorgeous, clean (read: blank), white granite.
To rap, use the rap station in the alcove. A single 60m rope will get you to the ground.
Protection 3 quickdraws, and a small selection of cams, finger to small hand size. You won't use most of it, but it's good to have, for variety's sake. A couple 4ft slings are helpful for the belay.
Mike Robinson after successful lead!
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Mike Zarnowski about to Red Point!
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By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Jun 17, 2009
| Note: I haven't done the second pitch yet...the guidebook mentions that it's not often climbed, mostly due to old 1/4" bolts. If someone does so before me, go ahead and send me the description and I'll add it. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 18, 2009
| nice description, i was thinking about this one... |
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Jun 19, 2009
| Fun story: My friend Teresa took a decent fall on this. She was about 8 feet right and 4 feet above the second bolt when her feet slipped off, sending her skidding down the slab on her feet, backwards! When the rope caught her, she swung around, and the rope running from my belay device to the first draw caught her behind the legs and flipped her over. The funny part is, the moment before she fell, she was talking about how much grippier the rock was at that section! She was also sporting a splint and ace bandage on her right arm, due to a broken wrist from a bicycle crash. |
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2009
| Did I hear that P2 caught some rockfall ? Nice climb, but don't try it in the heat. |
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 30, 2010
| I'm pretty sure that originally the route started from the stance on the left. The start from the ground was done later. It's not much harder and makes the route better. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 12, 2011
| i looked at pitch 2 the other day and all the bolt hangers looked smashed down a little... bummer, it looks "fun" (haha) i was psyched to give it a try but it might need some bolt work... |
By Tristan Perry
Jul 26, 2011
| Lee, you should try Condescending, the variation to the route that goes right and directly up the slab, instead of left of the alcove at the top of the first pitch. It's awesome-bolted slab climbing at 5.9 with good features on perfect stone! The bolts aren't damaged or quarter inchers like they are up the original second pitch. Also, I think that way you can basically link Condescendor into Consolation Prize for a great full length slab route. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 26, 2011
| thanks for the beta! ill give it a go one of these days... |
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Aug 6, 2011
| Do this route! Took a 15/20ft fall between the 2 and 3rd anchors with no pain! It is protected well and there is a 1 and 2 BD placement after the 3rd bolt to protect the finish. |
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 8, 2011
| And the point of adding bolts to a route done 35 years ago would be ? You could link the pitches with doubles anyway. |
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Aug 8, 2011
| I agree...keep it the way it is...just ware (spl?) pants |
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