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California
> San Diego County
> N San Diego County
> Old Castle
> Main Wall (aka The Go…
Conception
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Main Wall (aka The Gorilla Head Buttress)
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Bodhisattva Arête T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Conception T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lightening Bear TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Samsara Roof T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tatanka T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tatanka Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Thunder Bunny S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wounded Eagle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Adam Stackhouse and Friends. |
| Page Views: | 1,395 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Joshua Reinig on Apr 1, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: This great North County Crag is located on the boundary of partial lots for sale, private property and public land.
Details
Due to its location Old Castle Crag is around private lots of land primarily old avocado groves. As of now current land managers have no issues with access to this Crag. Respect land owners keep a low profile and most importantly clean up any trash, you pack out what you pack in. Thanks and Enjoy.
Description
On my solo ascent of this superb line is when I received a phone call from my wife mid route, that we were having a child. Having done the climb hundreds of times over the course of 10 years and never having named it, this name stuck. CONCEPTION! One of the most classic lines at Old Castle crag, if not one of the most classic in San Diego. Conception climbs the striking double finger crack straight up the center head wall of the Gorilla Head Buttress. It is as sustained as it looks from the ground. With significant crux being the transition from the starting dihedral into the double finger cracks.
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