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Conception 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: MIke Reardon, Ken Pitts
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 468
Submitted By: Mike Reardon on Mar 10, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Conception; P2 follows left of the large...
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A few fun cruxes on P1 and a looming dihedral over giant jugs, cracks, and solid pro on P2 make this a memorable outing. The opening crack took some cleaning but with some traffic, it should shape up to be a nice moderate.


Location 

Just left of the gully left of Resurrection, close to where the approach trail hits the rock.


Protection 

Standard rack, 2 bolts and a 2 bolt rap anchor on P1. Merge left to the rap tree on the top of P2, which is the same rap tree for Beeline/ Praying Mantis. A double 60M rope rap straight to the ground is recommended to keep you out of the gully to the left.



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By Austin Harris
Jun 6, 2013

I think P1 is the same route as 'Bunky's Rest Day (5.8)' in 'Selected Climbs in NC'. I would not recommend this route to someone new to leading 5.8 trad. The climbing itself is fun and easy, but the protection made it really not fun for me. If you've lead a lot of 5.9 trad in NC, and don't mind run-out, you'll totally enjoy it. I only did Pitch 1. If I had some TCU's (mini-cams) it would've felt safer. There are plenty of cracks to put pro in on the 1st half of P1, but nuts feel weak here. And the 2nd half of P1 there are no places for trad gear and there's no bolt for like 25 feet! It just felt run-out and scary. I also noticed a rap ring around a tree about 75' up and 15' to the right in that big gully. If there were some more bolts on the top half of P1 (even though the climbing here is 5.6 and 5.7) I would've loved it. I'd rate it a 5.8 R.

By Mike Reardon
Jun 7, 2013

Austin; I think you were not on Conception, you were on Bunkys Rest Day, which certainly should have an R. Right of Bunky's is a gully with a rap tree for Beeline/Praying Mantis, then an unknown R/X with an aluminum hanger, then Conception. TCU's would help both of these routes. The upcoming guidebook should help.