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A few fun cruxes on P1 and a looming dihedral over giant jugs, cracks, and solid pro on P2 make this a memorable outing. The opening crack took some cleaning but with some traffic, it should shape up to be a nice moderate.
Just left of the gully left of Resurrection, close to where the approach trail hits the rock.
Standard rack, 2 bolts and a 2 bolt rap anchor on P1. Merge left to rap tree on the top of P2.
Nov 11, 2013
As of 11/10/13. An angry nest of yellow jackets reside on the second pitch of Conception, about 50í above the belay, at a small tree. I donít believe there is a way around them with out disturbing the nest.
|By Austin Harris|
Jun 6, 2013
I think P1 is the same route as 'Bunky's Rest Day (5.8)' in 'Selected Climbs in NC'. I would not recommend this route to someone new to leading 5.8 trad. The climbing itself is fun and easy, but the protection made it really not fun for me. If you've lead a lot of 5.9 trad in NC, and don't mind run-out, you'll totally enjoy it. I only did Pitch 1. If I had some TCU's (mini-cams) it would've felt safer. There are plenty of cracks to put pro in on the 1st half of P1, but nuts feel weak here. And the 2nd half of P1 there are no places for trad gear and there's no bolt for like 25 feet! It just felt run-out and scary. I also noticed a rap ring around a tree about 75' up and 15' to the right in that big gully. If there were some more bolts on the top half of P1 (even though the climbing here is 5.6 and 5.7) I would've loved it. I'd rate it a 5.8 R.
|By Mike Reardon|
Jun 7, 2013
Austin; I think you were not on Conception, you were on Bunkys Rest Day, which certainly should have an R. Right of Bunky's is a gully with a rap tree for Beeline/Praying Mantis, then an unknown R/X with an aluminum hanger, then Conception. TCU's would help both of these routes. The upcoming guidebook should help.