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Comprehensive List of North America's hard cracks, 5.13 and up?
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By Max Tepfer
From Bend, OR
Dec 21, 2011

"There is at least one 5.13 at trout. It was a project last year, assume it got sent by now. "

FWIW there aren't currently any established .13s at Trout Creek and there are definitely none that involve jamming through the crux. The hardest grade anything at Trout with any length of actual crack climbing tends to top out around 5.12+. The current open projects (one of which Tommy Caldwell came close on, which you might be talking about) has very few holds/moves involving anything you might call a 'jam' and nobody's worked it since.


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By Greg Barnes
Dec 21, 2011
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Needle. Photo by Josh Janes.

There's a new 5.13 overhung-green-aliens crack in Tuolumne at the Power Wall:

www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1598921&msg=1>>>

Worth noting that Croft tried it years back and didn't get it...


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Dec 21, 2011

Highlander wrote:
They put up a new route this fall at the Moab Town Wall called Going to Hollywood 5.13-, in the same vicinity as the Hidden Gem..



That's the one I was talking about, not HPS.


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By ClimberRunner
From Redmond, WA
Dec 21, 2011

Josh Janes wrote:
Regarding the Wasp... I've heard a lot of people call it 5.12+ and a lot of people call it 5.13a.



Do you think it's easier or harder than Evictor? What about Beethoven's fifth?


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By Josh Janes
Dec 21, 2011

The Evictor took me 11 days to do (from the first time I ever TR'd it until the day I redpointed it). The Wasp took me 4. Which one is "harder" I can't say.


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By Chris Schenhoffer
From Prescott, AZ
Dec 21, 2011
Magnolia Thunder Pussey

camhead wrote:
Oh, and Chris, nice list of OWs; I did include Army of Darkness in the original list. From the descriptions of it, it doesn't seem to be an OW, does it?


Hello Cam, Sorry for skippin over the list and totaly missin "Army's" listing. I believe the double kneebar bat hang qualifies as an OW. I saw the rule no O-dubs but fatties need love too. Thanks for the great thread.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Dec 22, 2011

Another to add, although it may be arguable:

Joshua Tree: Perfidious 5.13b

Right in the campground. Has a few bolts and some fixed heads, but you will use gear too. It does climb like a crack with hard tips liebacking.


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By Peter Beal
From Boulder Colorado
Dec 22, 2011

In Boulder Canyon, The Throne Crack 13b Blob Rock


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By slim
Administrator
Dec 22, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

good call peter!


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By ScottyP
Dec 22, 2011

The Virgin at Moss Island (aka One Over the Hill) was originally graded 12c, but has settled in the 13- range. You may not want to include it though, as it's about 30 feet long.

Also, Coffin Crack at the Dihedrals is an old aid line that likely will go free at 14/14+.


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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Mar 18, 2013
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

Bump.

Cool video of Hong's Glad to be Trad:



Looks pretty awesome!


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By slim
Administrator
Mar 18, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

didn't watch the video - but for some reason the opening screen shot doesn't look like glad to be a trad. i thought glad to be a trad was more of a fingers splitter, kind of wavy and flake-y in lighter colored rock(?).


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By safetyfourth
Mar 18, 2013

slim wrote:
didn't watch the video - but for some reason the opening screen shot doesn't look like glad to be a trad. i thought glad to be a trad was more of a fingers splitter, kind of wavy and flake-y in lighter colored rock(?).


(makes some sort of comment about the invalidity in a video, but admits they haven't seen it, turns out it's exactly the route in the video)


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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Mar 18, 2013

slim wrote:
didn't watch the video

Maybe you should...the higher up crux part is definitely a wavy finger splitter. Btw, I hear our own Tank Evans has scoped out a new hard line @ a popular creek cliff.


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By slim
Administrator
Mar 18, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

safetyfourth wrote:
(makes some sort of comment about the invalidity in a video, but admits they haven't seen it, turns out it's exactly the route in the video)



fair enough - i try to avoid streaming videos at work, i'll check it out when i get home. i didn't mean to state that it wasn't the route, i just don't remember it looking like that. if i remember correctly there are several nice, hard routes in that general area.


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By Jcomeau
From Hopkinton, MA
Mar 18, 2013

Liquid sky on Cathedral
Cobra Crack in Squamish


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By Kirby
From DC
Mar 19, 2013

Surprise! There's at least one in Virginia, at Old Rag. I looked kind of hard but didn't see it in this thread already.

The The, 13a, John Bercaw

www.mountainproject.com/v/the-the/106006424


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Mar 19, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

That's the first thing that came to my mind Kirby. Camhead included it in his original list by state on the first page. That thing is NASTY.


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By Kirby
From DC
Mar 19, 2013

D'oh, how did I miss that? Yeah, never climbed it, but it sure does look nasty.. Maybe one day!


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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Apr 18, 2013
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

This thread needs more photos.

PeeWee on the Mexican Snow Fairy
PeeWee on the Mexican Snow Fairy


New 5.13+ in Utah.

Mexican Snow Fairy by PeeWee


This article also mentioned that he put up a possible 5.13- called "Fisting the Crack"

www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/bd-ath>>>

- Luke


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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Jan 21, 2014
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

Bump!

www.epictv.com/media/podcast/stranger-than-fiction-epictv-sh>>>

Sick video of Mason on a hard crack project.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Jan 21, 2014
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

In NH, Conor Cliffe freed the impressive overhanging aid crack '357' out at Green's last year at a probable mid 13 grade.
357 aka Angel It is the hardest crack climb I can think of in NH, though there are plenty of harder trad protected routes.

357 - Steeply overhanging crack - freed in 2013 by Conor Cliffe
357 - Steeply overhanging crack - freed in 2013 by Conor Cliffe


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By Ralph Swansen
From Denver CO
Jan 21, 2014
Escalante Canyon

My quick scan shows we have missed these,

www.mountainproject.com/v/the-frank-zappa-appreciation-socie>>>

www.mountainproject.com/v/cobra-crack/107234305


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By Matthias Holladay
From Durango, Colorado
Jan 21, 2014
Find these and enjoy some new routes!

Blackbeard's Tears....This must be 5.13 or harder . . . or not - it hasn't had an FFA!

Lauri, I think, and at that point, still smiling. She bagged it after about 30ft.
Lauri, I think, and at that point, still smiling. She bagged it after about 30ft.


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By Blake Allen Green
Jan 21, 2014
The top of Fingers in a Light Socket

The Almighty, 5.14

www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/almighty-climbing->>>

Seigrist with second ascent.

Additionally, Seigrist added a 14- crack to the Fins, Idaho

www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/jonathan-siegrist-first-as>>>


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