By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 21, 2011
| Puma (13), Donner Summit, FA: Suzuki
Star Wars Crack (13-), Donner Summit, FA: Suzuki
Love Supreme (13-), Tuolumne, FA: Bachar
Whippersnapper (13-), Tuolumne, FA: Croft
Broken Arrow (13), Tuolumne, FA: Kauk
Casablanca (13-), Yosemite Valley, FA: (TR) Kauk, FL: Suzuki
Title Fight (13-), Yosemite Valley, FA: Suzuki
Excellent Adventure (13), Yosemite Valley, FA: Croft
It's worth noting that Casablanca is a 25' variation start to another route (Robin) and that Love Supreme is about 40' high.
Excellent Adventure was mentioned previously by Luke but never made the list. | 
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By camhead
Dec 21, 2011
| Will S wrote: Pretty sure that Mason put up something this fall with Nico in/around Moab that is a 13ish crack...check his blog, it's probably on there.
That would be Hot Pork Sundae; it's already on the list. |
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By Highlander
From Ouray, CO
Dec 21, 2011
| camhead wrote: That would be Hot Pork Sundae; it's already on the list.
They put up a new route this fall at the Moab Town Wall called Going to Hollywood 5.13-, in the same vicinity as the Hidden Gem.. |
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By Christopher Barlow
Dec 21, 2011
| Not to continue the debate about a few of the routes here, but The Wasp and Less Than Zero are not crack climbs. LTZ has two hand jams and maybe five finger locks over 70 ft. The Wasp has about 25 feet of crack climbing that really turns out to be mostly 5.11 sidepulling (the other 60 feet of the climb is nearly entirely downward pulling holds). If these two routes qualify, then the list should also include Surf's Up, 'Fraid Line, and Free Line in Eldo and Air Sweden in the Creek as all of these have at least as much crack climbing on them as The Wasp and Less Than Zero and are all well into the 5.13 grade. Also, it really does seem like people who have extensively climbed 5.13 trad around the US find The Wasp and Less Than Zero to be 12+. They're still quite hard and incredibly high quality routes, but I understood Camhead's OP to be exclusionary; that is, to create a set of criteria to narrow the list, not expand it. There must be hundreds of lines in North America that are graded 5.13 by at least one person and follow a crack feature of some sort. To me, there is an elegance to holding strict criteria and ending up with a chiseled list. If The Wasp or LTZ (or any other route) doesn't make the list, it doesn't mean the route sucks or isn't an achievement to climb; it only means the route doesn't satisfy these completely arbitrary criteria. |
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By Max Tepfer
From Central Oregon
Dec 21, 2011
| "There is at least one 5.13 at trout. It was a project last year, assume it got sent by now. "
FWIW there aren't currently any established .13s at Trout Creek and there are definitely none that involve jamming through the crux. The hardest grade anything at Trout with any length of actual crack climbing tends to top out around 5.12+. The current open projects (one of which Tommy Caldwell came close on, which you might be talking about) has very few holds/moves involving anything you might call a 'jam' and nobody's worked it since. |
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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Dec 21, 2011
| Highlander wrote: They put up a new route this fall at the Moab Town Wall called Going to Hollywood 5.13-, in the same vicinity as the Hidden Gem..
That's the one I was talking about, not HPS. |
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By ClimberRunner
From Redmond, WA
Dec 21, 2011
| Josh Janes wrote: Regarding the Wasp... I've heard a lot of people call it 5.12+ and a lot of people call it 5.13a.
Do you think it's easier or harder than Evictor? What about Beethoven's fifth? |
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By Josh Janes
Dec 21, 2011
| The Evictor took me 11 days to do (from the first time I ever TR'd it until the day I redpointed it). The Wasp took me 4. Which one is "harder" I can't say. |
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By Chris Schenhoffer
From Prescott, AZ
Dec 21, 2011
| camhead wrote: Oh, and Chris, nice list of OWs; I did include Army of Darkness in the original list. From the descriptions of it, it doesn't seem to be an OW, does it?
Hello Cam, Sorry for skippin over the list and totaly missin "Army's" listing. I believe the double kneebar bat hang qualifies as an OW. I saw the rule no O-dubs but fatties need love too. Thanks for the great thread. |
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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Dec 22, 2011
| Another to add, although it may be arguable:
Joshua Tree: Perfidious 5.13b
Right in the campground. Has a few bolts and some fixed heads, but you will use gear too. It does climb like a crack with hard tips liebacking. |
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By Peter Beal
From Boulder Colorado
Dec 22, 2011
| In Boulder Canyon, The Throne Crack 13b Blob Rock |
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By slim
Dec 22, 2011
| good call peter! |
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By ScottyP
Dec 22, 2011
| The Virgin at Moss Island (aka One Over the Hill) was originally graded 12c, but has settled in the 13- range. You may not want to include it though, as it's about 30 feet long.
Also, Coffin Crack at the Dihedrals is an old aid line that likely will go free at 14/14+. |
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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Mar 18, 2013
| Bump.
Cool video of Hong's Glad to be Trad:
Looks pretty awesome! |
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By slim
Mar 18, 2013
| didn't watch the video - but for some reason the opening screen shot doesn't look like glad to be a trad. i thought glad to be a trad was more of a fingers splitter, kind of wavy and flake-y in lighter colored rock(?). |
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By safetyfourth
Mar 18, 2013
| slim wrote: didn't watch the video - but for some reason the opening screen shot doesn't look like glad to be a trad. i thought glad to be a trad was more of a fingers splitter, kind of wavy and flake-y in lighter colored rock(?).
(makes some sort of comment about the invalidity in a video, but admits they haven't seen it, turns out it's exactly the route in the video) |
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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Mar 18, 2013
| slim wrote: didn't watch the video
Maybe you should...the higher up crux part is definitely a wavy finger splitter. Btw, I hear our own Tank Evans has scoped out a new hard line @ a popular creek cliff. |
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By slim
Mar 18, 2013
| safetyfourth wrote: (makes some sort of comment about the invalidity in a video, but admits they haven't seen it, turns out it's exactly the route in the video)
fair enough - i try to avoid streaming videos at work, i'll check it out when i get home. i didn't mean to state that it wasn't the route, i just don't remember it looking like that. if i remember correctly there are several nice, hard routes in that general area. |
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By Jcomeau
From Hopkinton, MA
Mar 18, 2013
| Liquid sky on Cathedral
Cobra Crack in Squamish |
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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Mar 19, 2013
| That's the first thing that came to my mind Kirby. Camhead included it in his original list by state on the first page. That thing is NASTY. |
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By Kirby
From DC
Mar 19, 2013
| D'oh, how did I miss that? Yeah, never climbed it, but it sure does look nasty.. Maybe one day! |
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