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Comprehensive List of North America's hard cracks, 5.13 and up?
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Dec 21, 2011
"There is at least one 5.13 at trout. It was a project last year, assume it got sent by now. "

FWIW there aren't currently any established .13s at Trout Creek and there are definitely none that involve jamming through the crux. The hardest grade anything at Trout with any length of actual crack climbing tends to top out around 5.12+. The current open projects (one of which Tommy Caldwell came close on, which you might be talking about) has very few holds/moves involving anything you might call a 'jam' and nobody's worked it since.
Max Tepfer
From Bend, OR
Joined Oct 23, 2007
1,577 points
Dec 21, 2011
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Ne...
There's a new 5.13 overhung-green-aliens crack in Tuolumne at the Power Wall:

supertopo.com/climbing/thread....

Worth noting that Croft tried it years back and didn't get it...
Greg Barnes
Joined Apr 10, 2006
1,568 points
Dec 21, 2011
Highlander wrote:
They put up a new route this fall at the Moab Town Wall called Going to Hollywood 5.13-, in the same vicinity as the Hidden Gem..



That's the one I was talking about, not HPS.
Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,275 points
Dec 21, 2011
Josh Janes wrote:
Regarding the Wasp... I've heard a lot of people call it 5.12+ and a lot of people call it 5.13a.



Do you think it's easier or harder than Evictor? What about Beethoven's fifth?
ClimberRunner
From Redmond, WA
Joined Feb 22, 2009
18 points
Dec 21, 2011
The Evictor took me 11 days to do (from the first time I ever TR'd it until the day I redpointed it). The Wasp took me 4. Which one is "harder" I can't say. Josh Janes
Joined Jun 8, 2001
7,843 points
Dec 21, 2011
Magnolia Thunder Pussey
camhead wrote:
Oh, and Chris, nice list of OWs; I did include Army of Darkness in the original list. From the descriptions of it, it doesn't seem to be an OW, does it?


Hello Cam, Sorry for skippin over the list and totaly missin "Army's" listing. I believe the double kneebar bat hang qualifies as an OW. I saw the rule no O-dubs but fatties need love too. Thanks for the great thread.
Chris Schenhoffer
From Prescott, AZ
Joined May 4, 2010
5 points
Dec 22, 2011
Another to add, although it may be arguable:

Joshua Tree: Perfidious 5.13b

Right in the campground. Has a few bolts and some fixed heads, but you will use gear too. It does climb like a crack with hard tips liebacking.
Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,275 points
Dec 22, 2011
In Boulder Canyon, The Throne Crack 13b Blob Rock Peter Beal
From Boulder Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,993 points
Administrator
Dec 22, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
good call peter! slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,071 points
Dec 22, 2011
The Virgin at Moss Island (aka One Over the Hill) was originally graded 12c, but has settled in the 13- range. You may not want to include it though, as it's about 30 feet long.

Also, Coffin Crack at the Dihedrals is an old aid line that likely will go free at 14/14+.
ScottyP
Joined Dec 22, 2011
0 points
Mar 18, 2013
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after...
Bump.

Cool video of Hong's Glad to be Trad:



Looks pretty awesome!
Luke Stefurak
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jan 26, 2006
2,412 points
Administrator
Mar 18, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
didn't watch the video - but for some reason the opening screen shot doesn't look like glad to be a trad. i thought glad to be a trad was more of a fingers splitter, kind of wavy and flake-y in lighter colored rock(?). slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,071 points
Mar 18, 2013
slim wrote:
didn't watch the video - but for some reason the opening screen shot doesn't look like glad to be a trad. i thought glad to be a trad was more of a fingers splitter, kind of wavy and flake-y in lighter colored rock(?).


(makes some sort of comment about the invalidity in a video, but admits they haven't seen it, turns out it's exactly the route in the video)
safetyfourth
Joined Mar 18, 2013
22 points
Mar 18, 2013
slim wrote:
didn't watch the video

Maybe you should...the higher up crux part is definitely a wavy finger splitter. Btw, I hear our own Tank Evans has scoped out a new hard line @ a popular creek cliff.
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
143 points
Administrator
Mar 18, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
safetyfourth wrote:
(makes some sort of comment about the invalidity in a video, but admits they haven't seen it, turns out it's exactly the route in the video)



fair enough - i try to avoid streaming videos at work, i'll check it out when i get home. i didn't mean to state that it wasn't the route, i just don't remember it looking like that. if i remember correctly there are several nice, hard routes in that general area.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,071 points
Mar 18, 2013
Liquid sky on Cathedral
Cobra Crack in Squamish
Jcomeau
From North Conway
Joined Jul 7, 2009
754 points
Mar 19, 2013
Surprise! There's at least one in Virginia, at Old Rag. I looked kind of hard but didn't see it in this thread already.

The The, 13a, John Bercaw

mountainproject.com/v/the-the/...
Kirby
From DC
Joined Mar 5, 2010
31 points
Administrator
Mar 19, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
That's the first thing that came to my mind Kirby. Camhead included it in his original list by state on the first page. That thing is NASTY. Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,147 points
Mar 19, 2013
D'oh, how did I miss that? Yeah, never climbed it, but it sure does look nasty.. Maybe one day! Kirby
From DC
Joined Mar 5, 2010
31 points
Apr 18, 2013
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after...
This thread needs more photos.

PeeWee on the Mexican Snow Fairy
PeeWee on the Mexican Snow Fairy


New 5.13+ in Utah.

Mexican Snow Fairy by PeeWee


This article also mentioned that he put up a possible 5.13- called "Fisting the Crack"

blackdiamondequipment.com/en-u...

- Luke
Luke Stefurak
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jan 26, 2006
2,412 points
Jan 21, 2014
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after...
Bump!

epictv.com/media/podcast/stran...

Sick video of Mason on a hard crack project.
Luke Stefurak
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jan 26, 2006
2,412 points
Administrator
Jan 21, 2014
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...
In NH, Conor Cliffe freed the impressive overhanging aid crack '357' out at Green's last year at a probable mid 13 grade.
357 aka Angel It is the hardest crack climb I can think of in NH, though there are plenty of harder trad protected routes.

357 - Steeply overhanging crack - freed in 2013 by...
357 - Steeply overhanging crack - freed in 2013 by Conor Cliffe
M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,761 points
Jan 21, 2014
Escalante Canyon
My quick scan shows we have missed these,

mountainproject.com/v/the-fran...

mountainproject.com/v/cobra-cr...
Ralph Swansen
From Denver CO
Joined Nov 24, 2012
56 points
Jan 21, 2014
Find these and enjoy some new routes!
Blackbeard's Tears....This must be 5.13 or harder . . . or not - it hasn't had an FFA!
Lauri, I think, and at that point, still smiling. ...
Lauri, I think, and at that point, still smiling. She bagged it after about 30ft.
Matthias Holladay
From Durango, Colorado
Joined Jul 8, 2007
4,802 points
Jan 21, 2014
The top of Fingers in a Light Socket
The Almighty, 5.14

dpmclimbing.com/climbing-video...

Seigrist with second ascent.

Additionally, Seigrist added a 14- crack to the Fins, Idaho

dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/...
Blake Allen Green
Joined Apr 26, 2010
300 points


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