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Comprehensive List of North America's hard cracks, 5.13 and up?
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By Tom Rangitsch
From Lander, WY
Dec 20, 2011
Finishing Rimfire, 13b, at the Sanctuary in Sinks
In Wyoming, at the Sweetwater Rocks:

Soapstone Crack 5.13a- overhanging fingers and flared hands, 35 feet. FFA Steve Bechtel.

Cranner Rock Roof Crack 5.13a- roof crack on hands and fingers with some big sloping jugs outside the crack, 70 feet. FFA Greg Collins

In Teton Canyon (in Wyoming but approached through Idaho):

Waterfall Crack 5.13c- Vert finger crack. FFA with preplaced pro this fall by Ty Mack.

If you also are considering projects:

The "5.14" crack (Sweetwater Rocks)- overhanging flared fingers splitter with an extremely bouldery first 20 feet.

edit: oops, saw that the CRRC was already posted. Also check out teton.outerlocal.com/climbing/... for a video of Waterfall Crack.

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By slim
Administrator
Dec 20, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
matt lisenby's 'radioactive porksickle' near long canyon, potash road, utah.

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By Sam Feuerborn
From Durango, CO
Dec 20, 2011
Castle Wood Canyon, May '09
Less than zero doesn't make the cut as the cruxes are bouldery and i think it has been demoted by popular opinion.

And Kansas City special has been sent by nick martinez, it's in the First Ascent series.

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By Rob Dillon
Dec 20, 2011
I have not climbed it but the Grand Contusion now sports bolts alongside the seam where the fixed nuts used to be.

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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Dec 20, 2011
Add

YOS:
Van Belle O Drome
Van Belle Syndrome
Dale's Pin Job

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By Luke Stefurak
From Seattle, WA
Dec 20, 2011
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after...
Right. Saw the video, where Nick hadn't done it yet...

Looks like Hayden grabbed the FFA.



Sweet looking climb!

ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php...

- Luke

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 20, 2011
You stay away from mah pig!
Ok, I updated a bit more. Shit, this list is getting burdensome.

Mark, the Optimist is bolted, no? Though, I guess that if I included the East Face of Monkey Face, I should include Optimist.


Will, I thought that the Van Belle cracks were just TRs, or at least that's how Bob put them up. Who got the first lead ascent of them?

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By Sam Feuerborn
From Durango, CO
Dec 20, 2011
Castle Wood Canyon, May '09
Just sayin' check the Less than Zero MP page, gets the ol' 12+/12c

Larry, I'd agree with your appraisal of KSP, can't speak to the other.

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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Dec 20, 2011
camhead wrote:
Will, I thought that the Van Belle cracks were just TRs, or at least that's how Bob put them up. Who got the first lead ascent of them?


Not sure about first leads, but I remember that one of them was bolted and Peter Croft onsighted it on gear...at least that's what my hazy memory says.

EDIT: Clint's page says
"Van Belle O Drome FA(with bolts): Hidetaka Suzuki, 1990
FA(without bolts): Peter Croft
Van Belle Syndrome FA: Peter Croft, 1991"

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By AWinters
Administrator
From NH
Dec 20, 2011
Red-tail Hawk, Buttermilks
For NH, does this count? Beanpole

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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Dec 20, 2011
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
camhead wrote:
Mark, the Optimist is bolted, no? Though, I guess that if I included the East Face of Monkey Face, I should include Optimist.


Yes, the optimist is bolted.

The East Face is hardly a clip up, though that is a common misconception. Its got 4 bolts in 130 feet of climbing. The hardest moves are gear-protected. Another misconception is that Watts added the bolts. In fact the bolts were placed by the FA aid party, which included Yosemite legend Kim Schmitz.

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By Josh Janes
Dec 20, 2011
Not overly ambitious, but somewhat silly since the grade of any "true" crack is very size dependent.

For that reason, I'd propose changing the criteria of the list to "mostly gear-protected routes that are mostly about crack climbing and have a grade that most people consider 5.13". That way, you can keep routes like my route, Kindness, as well as other "crack" climbs that have "facey" cruxes like The Wasp, Pyromania, The Equalizer, and The Avenger, on the list.

Desert Gold was first freed (each section separately) by Paul Van Betten. The 13a linkup by Stefan Glowacz, not Peter Croft.

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 20, 2011
You stay away from mah pig!
"Not overly ambitious, but somewhat silly since the grade of any "true" crack is very size dependent. For that reason, I'd propose changing the criteria of the list to "mostly gear-protected routes that are mostly about crack climbing and have a grade that most people consider 5.13". That way, you can keep routes like my route, Kindness, as well as other "crack" climbs that have "facey" cruxes like The Wasp, Pyromania, The Equalizer, and The Avenger, on the list.

Desert Gold was first freed (each section separately) by Paul Van Betten. The 13a linkup by Stefan Glowacz, not Peter Croft."

Yeah, this list is starting to show how contrived making designations for "pure" cracks is. Just curious, do "most" people consider The Wasp 5.13?

(edited because somehow I screwed the quote function up.)

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By Floater
From Flagstaff AZ
Dec 20, 2011
A couple more Mattson Routes in Az are Pacing the Cage at the Forks 13 a or b and Lifeline in Sedona definitely 13b. Red Planet is now 13a. Great List.

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By LeeAB
Administrator
From ABQ, NM
Dec 20, 2011
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place t...
What about Cat Daddy in the Sandia Mountains and
Original Route (aka Mean Leaner) at Las Conchas.

Cat Daddy has seen at least a handful of lead ascents, don't know about Mean Leaner.

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By Josh Janes
Dec 20, 2011
Regarding the Wasp... I've heard a lot of people call it 5.12+ and a lot of people call it 5.13a. I think that it sure is "easy" for 5.13a, but that's once you suss out the moves and gear - both of which are very complicated. Anyone who onsights this will probably be putting in a 5.13 effort. But we all love that number - 5.13 - so I awarded myself 5.13a for the route even though on redpoint it felt easy... like I didn't "deserve it". But lots of redpoints feel that way. And I'll be the first to admit I can't even touch Wendego in Eldo which is only 12a!

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By Chris Schenhoffer
From Prescott, AZ
Dec 20, 2011
Magnolia Thunder Pussey
Dont forget the O-Dubs:
Century Crack 5.14b
Army of Darkness 5.13d
Gabriel 5.13b
The Price of Evil 5.13b
Angry Pirate Finish 5.13b
Belly Full of Bad Berries 5.13a
Lucille 5.13a
Spatial Relations 5.13a
The Vag 5.13a
Trench Warfare Extension 5.13a
Witness The Wideness 5.12d/5.13a
The Brad 5.12d/5.13a
Improbability Drive 5.12+/13-
You cand find pictures and locales here.

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 21, 2011
You stay away from mah pig!
Ok, I edited the list with Lee's NM additions, as well as the Dr's additional Mattson routes. Also re-added the Wasp and Less Than Zero, per Josh and Larry's convincing arguments for inclusion. Also added Ring That Bell n NoUT, that thing looks sweet.

Oh, and Chris, nice list of OWs; I did include Army of Darkness in the original list. From the descriptions of it, it doesn't seem to be an OW, does it?

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By ddriver
From SLC
Dec 21, 2011
Is the Gunfighter at Hueco still considered 13a?

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By Tom Rangitsch
From Lander, WY
Dec 21, 2011
Finishing Rimfire, 13b, at the Sanctuary in Sinks
Okay, this is minutia, but Fiddler On The Roof is probably not 13d, unless you do it the way Petro did. Ascents in the "modern era" have been much more dynamic. I have heard 13b or c from a couple of Casper folks who have sent it.

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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Dec 21, 2011
Pretty sure that Mason put up something this fall with Nico in/around Moab that is a 13ish crack...check his blog, it's probably on there.

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By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 21, 2011
Sugar Pine (Pinus lambertiana), Black Mountain
Puma (13), Donner Summit, FA: Suzuki
Star Wars Crack (13-), Donner Summit, FA: Suzuki
Love Supreme (13-), Tuolumne, FA: Bachar
Whippersnapper (13-), Tuolumne, FA: Croft
Broken Arrow (13), Tuolumne, FA: Kauk
Casablanca (13-), Yosemite Valley, FA: (TR) Kauk, FL: Suzuki
Title Fight (13-), Yosemite Valley, FA: Suzuki
Excellent Adventure (13), Yosemite Valley, FA: Croft

It's worth noting that Casablanca is a 25' variation start to another route (Robin) and that Love Supreme is about 40' high.

Excellent Adventure was mentioned previously by Luke but never made the list.

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 21, 2011
You stay away from mah pig!
Will S wrote:
Pretty sure that Mason put up something this fall with Nico in/around Moab that is a 13ish crack...check his blog, it's probably on there.


That would be Hot Pork Sundae; it's already on the list.

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By Highlander
From Ouray, CO
Dec 21, 2011
camhead wrote:
That would be Hot Pork Sundae; it's already on the list.


They put up a new route this fall at the Moab Town Wall called Going to Hollywood 5.13-, in the same vicinity as the Hidden Gem..

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By Christopher Barlow
Dec 21, 2011
Not to continue the debate about a few of the routes here, but The Wasp and Less Than Zero are not crack climbs. LTZ has two hand jams and maybe five finger locks over 70 ft. The Wasp has about 25 feet of crack climbing that really turns out to be mostly 5.11 sidepulling (the other 60 feet of the climb is nearly entirely downward pulling holds). If these two routes qualify, then the list should also include Surf's Up, 'Fraid Line, and Free Line in Eldo and Air Sweden in the Creek as all of these have at least as much crack climbing on them as The Wasp and Less Than Zero and are all well into the 5.13 grade. Also, it really does seem like people who have extensively climbed 5.13 trad around the US find The Wasp and Less Than Zero to be 12+. They're still quite hard and incredibly high quality routes, but I understood Camhead's OP to be exclusionary; that is, to create a set of criteria to narrow the list, not expand it. There must be hundreds of lines in North America that are graded 5.13 by at least one person and follow a crack feature of some sort. To me, there is an elegance to holding strict criteria and ending up with a chiseled list. If The Wasp or LTZ (or any other route) doesn't make the list, it doesn't mean the route sucks or isn't an achievement to climb; it only means the route doesn't satisfy these completely arbitrary criteria.

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