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Comprehensive List of North America's hard cracks, 5.13 and up?
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Dec 20, 2011
Pulling a small roof at 2/3 height on Mission Impossible.  Adam Sanders photo.

For Smith add Double Stain, Snack Crack, both 13b, FA Watts and The Optimist "14b" FA Rodden


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By ABG
From Winston-Salem, NC
Dec 20, 2011

I think there is more than enough jamming on this route to be considered. havent't done it though.
mountainproject.com/v/ring-that-bell/106954960


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By Tom Rangitsch
From Lander, WY
Dec 20, 2011
Finishing Rimfire, 13b, at the Sanctuary in Sinks

In Wyoming, at the Sweetwater Rocks:

Soapstone Crack 5.13a- overhanging fingers and flared hands, 35 feet. FFA Steve Bechtel.

Cranner Rock Roof Crack 5.13a- roof crack on hands and fingers with some big sloping jugs outside the crack, 70 feet. FFA Greg Collins

In Teton Canyon (in Wyoming but approached through Idaho):

Waterfall Crack 5.13c- Vert finger crack. FFA with preplaced pro this fall by Ty Mack.

If you also are considering projects:

The "5.14" crack (Sweetwater Rocks)- overhanging flared fingers splitter with an extremely bouldery first 20 feet.

edit: oops, saw that the CRRC was already posted. Also check out teton.outerlocal.com/climbing/ty-mack-on-waterfall-crack-new>>> for a video of Waterfall Crack.


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By slim
Administrator
Dec 20, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

matt lisenby's 'radioactive porksickle' near long canyon, potash road, utah.


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By Sam Feuerborn
From Durango, CO
Dec 20, 2011
Castle Wood Canyon, May '09

Less than zero doesn't make the cut as the cruxes are bouldery and i think it has been demoted by popular opinion.

And Kansas City special has been sent by nick martinez, it's in the First Ascent series.


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By Rob Dillon
Dec 20, 2011

I have not climbed it but the Grand Contusion now sports bolts alongside the seam where the fixed nuts used to be.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Dec 20, 2011

Add

YOS:
Van Belle O Drome
Van Belle Syndrome
Dale's Pin Job


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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Dec 20, 2011
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

Right. Saw the video, where Nick hadn't done it yet...

Looks like Hayden grabbed the FFA.



Sweet looking climb!

www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=365

- Luke


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 20, 2011
You stay away from mah pig!

Ok, I updated a bit more. Shit, this list is getting burdensome.

Mark, the Optimist is bolted, no? Though, I guess that if I included the East Face of Monkey Face, I should include Optimist.


Will, I thought that the Van Belle cracks were just TRs, or at least that's how Bob put them up. Who got the first lead ascent of them?


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By Sam Feuerborn
From Durango, CO
Dec 20, 2011
Castle Wood Canyon, May '09

Just sayin' check the Less than Zero MP page, gets the ol' 12+/12c

Larry, I'd agree with your appraisal of KSP, can't speak to the other.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Dec 20, 2011

camhead wrote:
Will, I thought that the Van Belle cracks were just TRs, or at least that's how Bob put them up. Who got the first lead ascent of them?


Not sure about first leads, but I remember that one of them was bolted and Peter Croft onsighted it on gear...at least that's what my hazy memory says.

EDIT: Clint's page says
"Van Belle O Drome FA(with bolts): Hidetaka Suzuki, 1990
FA(without bolts): Peter Croft
Van Belle Syndrome FA: Peter Croft, 1991"


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By Adam Winters
Administrator
From the Shire
Dec 20, 2011
Red-tail Hawk, Buttermilks

For NH, does this count? Beanpole


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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Dec 20, 2011
Pulling a small roof at 2/3 height on Mission Impossible.  Adam Sanders photo.

camhead wrote:
Mark, the Optimist is bolted, no? Though, I guess that if I included the East Face of Monkey Face, I should include Optimist.


Yes, the optimist is bolted.

The East Face is hardly a clip up, though that is a common misconception. Its got 4 bolts in 130 feet of climbing. The hardest moves are gear-protected. Another misconception is that Watts added the bolts. In fact the bolts were placed by the FA aid party, which included Yosemite legend Kim Schmitz.


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By Josh Janes
Dec 20, 2011

Not overly ambitious, but somewhat silly since the grade of any "true" crack is very size dependent.

For that reason, I'd propose changing the criteria of the list to "mostly gear-protected routes that are mostly about crack climbing and have a grade that most people consider 5.13". That way, you can keep routes like my route, Kindness, as well as other "crack" climbs that have "facey" cruxes like The Wasp, Pyromania, The Equalizer, and The Avenger, on the list.

Desert Gold was first freed (each section separately) by Paul Van Betten. The 13a linkup by Stefan Glowacz, not Peter Croft.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 20, 2011
You stay away from mah pig!

"Not overly ambitious, but somewhat silly since the grade of any "true" crack is very size dependent. For that reason, I'd propose changing the criteria of the list to "mostly gear-protected routes that are mostly about crack climbing and have a grade that most people consider 5.13". That way, you can keep routes like my route, Kindness, as well as other "crack" climbs that have "facey" cruxes like The Wasp, Pyromania, The Equalizer, and The Avenger, on the list.

Desert Gold was first freed (each section separately) by Paul Van Betten. The 13a linkup by Stefan Glowacz, not Peter Croft."

Yeah, this list is starting to show how contrived making designations for "pure" cracks is. Just curious, do "most" people consider The Wasp 5.13?

(edited because somehow I screwed the quote function up.)


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By Floater
From Flagstaff AZ
Dec 20, 2011

A couple more Mattson Routes in Az are Pacing the Cage at the Forks 13 a or b and Lifeline in Sedona definitely 13b. Red Planet is now 13a. Great List.


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By JLP
From The Internet
Dec 20, 2011

camhead wrote:
Just curious, do "most" people consider The Wasp 5.13?

Do "most" log into MP.com to spray about their ascents? Do most who "tick" an ascent actually climb it? Do most who rate the coveted (X)a have several (X-1)c,d ascents with which to compare? Is the "d" a lost grade outside of Rifle and Yosemite?

All these issues aside, I do like this list. It's interesting how short it is given how many claim to climb 5.13 these days. Are there long lines at each of these climbs?

Deep in your heart, you know if the route was light - or you'll likely find out when you try to get up some others rated the same. It's just ego to actually care much about it, really.


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From ABQ, NM
Dec 20, 2011
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.

What about Cat Daddy in the Sandia Mountains and
Original Route (aka Mean Leaner) at Las Conchas.

Cat Daddy has seen at least a handful of lead ascents, don't know about Mean Leaner.


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By Josh Janes
Dec 20, 2011

Regarding the Wasp... I've heard a lot of people call it 5.12+ and a lot of people call it 5.13a. I think that it sure is "easy" for 5.13a, but that's once you suss out the moves and gear - both of which are very complicated. Anyone who onsights this will probably be putting in a 5.13 effort. But we all love that number - 5.13 - so I awarded myself 5.13a for the route even though on redpoint it felt easy... like I didn't "deserve it". But lots of redpoints feel that way. And I'll be the first to admit I can't even touch Wendego in Eldo which is only 12a!


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By Chris Schenhoffer
From Prescott, AZ
Dec 20, 2011
Magnolia Thunder Pussey

Dont forget the O-Dubs:
Century Crack 5.14b
Army of Darkness 5.13d
Gabriel 5.13b
The Price of Evil 5.13b
Angry Pirate Finish 5.13b
Belly Full of Bad Berries 5.13a
Lucille 5.13a
Spatial Relations 5.13a
The Vag 5.13a
Trench Warfare Extension 5.13a
Witness The Wideness 5.12d/5.13a
The Brad 5.12d/5.13a
Improbability Drive 5.12+/13-
You cand find pictures and locales here.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 21, 2011
You stay away from mah pig!

Ok, I edited the list with Lee's NM additions, as well as the Dr's additional Mattson routes. Also re-added the Wasp and Less Than Zero, per Josh and Larry's convincing arguments for inclusion. Also added Ring That Bell n NoUT, that thing looks sweet.

Oh, and Chris, nice list of OWs; I did include Army of Darkness in the original list. From the descriptions of it, it doesn't seem to be an OW, does it?


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By ddriver
From SLC
Dec 21, 2011

Is the Gunfighter at Hueco still considered 13a?


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By Tom Rangitsch
From Lander, WY
Dec 21, 2011
Finishing Rimfire, 13b, at the Sanctuary in Sinks

Okay, this is minutia, but Fiddler On The Roof is probably not 13d, unless you do it the way Petro did. Ascents in the "modern era" have been much more dynamic. I have heard 13b or c from a couple of Casper folks who have sent it.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Dec 21, 2011

Pretty sure that Mason put up something this fall with Nico in/around Moab that is a 13ish crack...check his blog, it's probably on there.


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By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 21, 2011
High Desert Sunrise, Joshua Tree NP

Puma (13), Donner Summit, FA: Suzuki
Star Wars Crack (13-), Donner Summit, FA: Suzuki
Love Supreme (13-), Tuolumne, FA: Bachar
Whippersnapper (13-), Tuolumne, FA: Croft
Broken Arrow (13), Tuolumne, FA: Kauk
Casablanca (13-), Yosemite Valley, FA: (TR) Kauk, FL: Suzuki
Title Fight (13-), Yosemite Valley, FA: Suzuki
Excellent Adventure (13), Yosemite Valley, FA: Croft

It's worth noting that Casablanca is a 25' variation start to another route (Robin) and that Love Supreme is about 40' high.

Excellent Adventure was mentioned previously by Luke but never made the list.


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