By camhead From The Old Northwest Dec 20, 2011
| Ok, this may be overly ambitious, but I was thinking about this while reading another thread over on rc.kn00b about hard roof cracks. Would it be possible for us to put together a list of all cracks, 5.13 and up, in North America? Since this is already going to be a big list let's narrow it down a bit: -no offwidths, -no face trad (i.e., the routes should be splitters and/or corners, in which the crux is more or less pure jamming. Something like Survival of the Fittest at the Gunks would not cut it) -no boulder problems (i.e. Sasquatch) or super short routes that are usually tr'd (Moonbeam Crack at Jtree) -perhaps keep it limited to more cragging-type routes (1-3 pitches)? I'm not sure if we should go into, say, the Salathe Headwall or not. I'll try to put together a list, state-by-state (and Canadian province by province). FA info, and specifications (corner, splitter, size) would be cool, too. Help me out! |  FLAG |
By Sam Feuerborn From Durango, CO Dec 20, 2011
| I think the creek is going to have the best selection of hard cracks. Learning to Fly Ruby's Cafe Optimator Machete Hot Pork Sundae Death of a Cowboy to name a few of the .13's at the creek |  FLAG |
By camhead From The Old Northwest Dec 20, 2011
| Yeah, the list I put together has a LOT from the Creek. Here goes: Hard Trad Cracks (East to West) QUEBEC Le Zebree, 14a, Val-David, FA: Peewee Oullett Toit de Ben, 13a, “” NEW HAMPSHIRE: Beanpole, 13-, Pawtuckaway, FA: Charlie Bentley (a 35 foot TR, but I had to include something from NH!) NEW YORK Zabba, 13a, ADKs, FA: Dave Aldous Wheelin’ n Dealin, 13c, ADKs, Matt McCormick Oppositional Defiance Disorder, 14-, ADKs, Pete Kamitses VIRGINIA The The, 13a, Old Rag, FA: John Bercaw WEST VIRGINIA Greatest Show on Earth, 13a, NRG, FA: Lynn Hill Biodiesel, 13b, NRG, FA: Eric DeCaria Temporary Insanity, 13a, NRG, FA: Brian McCray NORTH CAROLINA (no idea, all the hard lines I know of here are face climbs) KENTUCKY Welcome to Ol Kentuck, 13a, RRG, FA: Steve Petro Thermonuclear, 13a, Dawson Bluffs, FA: Jim Thurmond Gyana Mudra, 13b, FA: Andrew Gearing Charlie, 13b, FA: A bunch of Petzl Roktrip people, has not seen a redpoint gear ascent TENNESSEE Tamper Proof, 13a, T-wall, FA: Jeff Gruenberg Supernova, 13a, T-wall, FA: Rob Robinson Riddle on the Roof, 13a, T-wall, Nathaniel Walker Grand Contusion, 13, T-wall, FA: Robinson Poweropolis, 13, T-wall, FA: Robinson TEXAS Gunfighter, 13a, Hueco Tanks, FA: Todd Skinner COLORADO The Wasp, 12+/13-, RMNP, FA: Topher Donahue China Doll Extension, 14-, Boulder Canyon, FA: Mike Patz Country Boy, 13+, Lumpy Ridge, FA: Caldwell Anaconda, 13c, Lumpy Ridge, FA: Alan Lester Sphinx Crack, 13b/c, Spatte, FA: Steve Hong Comprometido, 14-, Spatte, FA: Jason Haas Sub-Zero, 13-, 11-Mile Canyon, FA: Chris Barlow Triple Exposure, 12+/13-, Garden of the Gods, FA: Aschert/Dangle Orangutang Overhang, 14-, Independence Pass, FA: Matt Segal The Avenger, 13-, Independence Pass, Josh Wharton NEW MEXICO Cat Daddy, 13-, Sandias, FA: John Duran Original Route (Mean Leaner), 13-, Las Conchas, FA: Luke Laeser WYOMING Fiddler on the Roof, 13d, Fremont Canyon, FA: Steve Petro Home on the Range, 13+/14-, Vedauwoo, FA: Justin Edl Cranner Rock Roof Crack, 13-, Sweetwater Rocks, FA: Greg Collins Soapstone Crack, 13-, Sweetwater Rocks, FA: Steve Bechtel Waterfall Crack, 13c, Teton Canyon, Ty Mack IDAHO Boogieman, 14-, City of Rocks, FA: Yaniro (currently closed, may have been bolted?) UTAH Fallen Arches, 13a, LCC, FA: Steve Hong Ring That Bell, 13b, Bell's Canyon, FA: Brad Heller
- Subheading: Indian Creek:
Ruby’s Café, 13a, FA: Lisa Gnade Pink Flamingo, 13a, FA: Hong? Tricks are for Kids, 13a, FA: Hong Winner Takes All, 13a, FA: Woodward 6-Star, 13a, FA: Hong? Kansas City Special, 14-, FA: Nick Martino From Switzerland with Love, 13c, FA: Berthoud Learning to Fly, 13b/c, FA: Berthoud Abbienormal, 13a, FA: Mike Patz Optimator, 13a, FA: Jose Pereya Machete, 13a, FA: Mason Earle Pat’s Blue Ribbon, 13a, FA: Kingsbury Fairy Tales, 13a, FA: Peewee Less than Zero, 12+/13-, FA: Nathan Martin Hot Pork Sundae, 13, Mason Earle Death of a Cowboy, 13a, FA: Petro Hong Kong Phooey, 13+, Dean Potter* No Way, Jose, 13, North Wash, FA: Jose Pereya Trail of Tears, 13, North Wash, FA: Scott Carson Bushido, 13c, Moab, FA: Noah Bigwood Concepción, 13+, Moab, FA: Dean Potter Epitaph, 13+, Moab, FA: Dean Potter (ok, might be a bit more than “cragging”) Necronomicon, 14-, Canyonlands, FA: Peewee Army of Darkness, 13+, Canyonlands, FA: Rob Pizem Master Blaster, 13+, Zion, FA: Ben Gilkinson ARIZONA Red Planet, 13a, Sedona, FA: John Mattson Lifeline, 13b, Sedona, Mattson Equalizer, 13a, Paradise Forks, FA: John Mattson Pacing the Cage, 13a/b, Paradise Forks, Mattson Parting Gift, 13a, Oak Creek Waterfall, FA: Mike Sokoloff Kindness, 13a, Oak Creek Waterfall, FA: Josh Janes NEVADA: Desert Gold, 13a, Red Rocks, FA: Stefan Glowacz. CALIFORNIA The Stigma, 13c, Yosemite, FA: Alan Watts Phantom, 13a, Yosemite, FA: Bachar Casablanca (13-), Yosemite Valley, FA: Suzuki Title Fight (13-), Yosemite Valley, FA: Suzuki Van Belle Odrome, 13, Yosemite, FA: Bob Van Belle Van Belle Syndrome, 13, Yosemite, FA: Bob Van Belle Cosmic Debris, 13b, Yosemite, FA: Bil Price Phoenix, 13a, Yosemite, FA: Jardine (with aid, no?) Book of Hate, 13c, Yosemite, FA: Leavitt Meltdown, 14b, Yosemite, FA: Beth Rodden Magic Line, 14a, Yosemite, FA: Kauk Excellent Adventure (13), Yosemite Valley, FA: Croft Love Supreme (13-), Tuolumne, FA: Bachar Whippersnapper (13-), Tuolumne, FA: Croft Broken Arrow (13), Tuolumne, FA: Kauk Puma (13), Donner Summit, FA: Suzuki Star Wars Crack (13-), Donner Summit, FA: Suzuki Grand Illusion, 13b/c, Sugarloaf, FA: Yaniro Pyromania, 13b, Needles, FA: Yaniro Stingray, 13+, J-tree, FA: Mike Paul/Suzuki? Dihedron, 14-, Jtree, FA: Leavitt Asteroid Crack, 12+/13-, Jtree, FA: ? OREGON East Monkey Face, 13+, Alan Watts? Double Stain, 13b, Smith, Alan Watts Snack Crack, 13b, Watts (I am totally out of my element here. Any 13s at Trout Creek?) WASHINGTON City Park, 13c, Index, FA: Todd Skinner BRITISH COLUMBIA Zombie Roof, 13a, FA: Peter Croft Sixty Nine, 13b/c, FA: Andrew Boyd Cobra Crack, 14b/c, FA: Sonny Trotter Ok, I'm missing a lot. help me out here! |  FLAG |
By Tico Dec 20, 2011
| Scott Carson did the FA of trail of tears. |  FLAG |
By camhead From The Old Northwest Dec 20, 2011
| Tico wrote: Scott Carson did the FA of trail of tears. Thanks, I'll edit that. There are also at least two 13s in Capitol Reef that I know of, though I don't know the names of FAs. |  FLAG |
By Christopher Barlow Dec 20, 2011
| I'll help narrow the list. There are several routes that you've mentioned that are not pure crack climbs. Here are the ones that I've seen/climbed that I'd remove because they are much more traditionally protected face climbing. The Wasp Kansas City Special Pyromania (I haven't seen this one, but folks have said it's face climbing for the hard stuff) I'd say China Doll barely qualifies. The 13+ version is entirely bolted while the 14- extension is on gear and pure jamming. Some others to add to the list in CO: Triple Exposure at Garden of the Gods (in the 12+/13- range) Sub-Zero in Eleven-mile Canyon (has two bolts, but the hard stuff is jamming and gear protected) Some cracks in Colorado National Monument (see the MP.com page on them) There are also several more hard cracks at Tennessee Wall and areas around Chattanooga, but I don't know which ones specifically. |  FLAG |
By rock_fencer From Columbia, SC Dec 20, 2011
| NC: Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test - mixed dihedral with some crack climbing in it 12c/d here on MP but its hard Dixie Reality - 5.12 - cant attest to the difficulty of this one, havent tried it yet Reflections - 5.12 C2 on the north face of table rock SC would be way hard if it was successfully freed. |  FLAG |
By camhead From The Old Northwest Dec 20, 2011
| Christopher Barlow wrote: I'll help narrow the list. There are several routes that you've mentioned that are not pure crack climbs. Here are the ones that I've seen/climbed that I'd remove because they are much more traditionally protected face climbing. The Wasp Kansas City Special Pyromania (I haven't seen this one, but folks have said it's face climbing for the hard stuff) I'd say China Doll barely qualifies. The 13+ version is entirely bolted while the 14- extension is on gear and pure jamming. Some others to add to the list in CO: Triple Exposure at Garden of the Gods (in the 12+/13- range) Sub-Zero in Eleven-mile Canyon (has two bolts, but the hard stuff is jamming and gear protected) Some cracks in Colorado National Monument (see the MP.com page on them) There are also several more hard cracks at Tennessee Wall and areas around Chattanooga, but I don't know which ones specifically. Yeah, those routes you mentioned are definitely gray area climbs. The reason I added them (and I've not been on any of them, all this knowledge is just from jerking off to videos) is because they follow crack features, and at least KC Special and Pyromania have significant amounts of crack climbing to them, even if not at the cruxes. It gets difficult to draw the line at the upper levels, since hard face, hard crack, and laybacking all get so similar once you are just on your fingertips. I'll remove the Wasp, though, and add Triple Exposure and Sub-zero. |  FLAG |
By camhead From The Old Northwest Dec 20, 2011
| sawyer wylie wrote: One that HASN'T been done? too hard for me. That thing looks SICK! |  FLAG |
By JLP From The Internet Dec 20, 2011
| I figured people would be posting 12's that are "hard" by the 2nd or 3rd post, but it appears it took a few more. I'd suggest adding authenticity to your list by summarily removing the 13a's that have been well confirmed as actually being 12, The Wasp and Ruby's, for example. Most 13's on El Cap are face climbing affairs, the Salathe Headwall being an exceptional exception. Most crag it from the top, hoping someday to be able to approach via the comparatively pedestrian pitches below it. I'd stick it in there. |  FLAG |
By Richard Shore Dec 20, 2011
| some more from Joshua Tree: Asteroid Crack 5.12d/13a Dihedron 5.14a |  FLAG |
By camhead From The Old Northwest Dec 20, 2011
| All right, added Dihedron and Asteroid. And JLP, yeah, I realized that quite a few 13s minus that I added would be in the debated 12+/13- divide. Especially for something like crack climbing which is so dependent on finger size. I've not been on the Wasp, and have not sent Ruby's but felt that Ruby's Cafe was certainly comparable to other 13a cracks (or hell, 13a faces) that I've been on and/or sent. |  FLAG |
By camhead From The Old Northwest Dec 20, 2011
| Oh, and question on the Salathe headwall: Skinner split it into short pitches with a hanging belay, no? Who did the first send of it in its entirety? Alex Huber? |  FLAG |
By JCM From Golden, CO Dec 20, 2011
| In Wyoming, at Sweetwater Rocks, there is the Cranner Rock Roof Crack (13a). |  FLAG |
By JCM From Golden, CO Dec 20, 2011
| camhead wrote: Oh, and question on the Salathe headwall: Skinner split it into short pitches with a hanging belay, no? Who did the first send of it in its entirety? Alex Huber? I think it was Yuji, but I am not certain of that. |  FLAG |
By JCM From Golden, CO Dec 20, 2011
| Also, at the Flatirons, there is Five Year Plan (mid-5.13). A very steep crack Edit: At Independence Pass, there is Orangutan Overhang (5.14-). I'm fairly sure that it is a crack. |  FLAG |
By camhead From The Old Northwest Dec 20, 2011
| Jon Moen wrote: In Wyoming, at Sweetwater Rocks, there is the Cranner Rock Roof Crack (13a). Done. I recall hearing something about that line, it would be sweet to see some photos. |  FLAG |
By JLP From The Internet Dec 20, 2011
| The desert grades do get a little fuzzy and gray because of size. Only a few have done the headwall "ledge to ledge". www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm has some info. Style of ascent gets pretty weird on El Cap. You can't project this stuff like you can a route on the ground, so people do their best, call out the compromises they settled with (usually), then move on to the next one. |  FLAG |
By camhead From The Old Northwest Dec 20, 2011
| Yeah, looks like I forgot a bunch of stuff at Independence Pass. Orangutang, and The Avenger, for example. |  FLAG |
By camhead From The Old Northwest Dec 20, 2011
| johnL wrote: The word on the street is that Five Year Plan has nothing to do with crack climbing. The other word on the street is that The Wasp is a 12c "sport" route. I pretty much wrote off everything in Eldo, too, since it's all face climbing. And The Wasp has gotten voted off the island. |  FLAG |
By JCM From Golden, CO Dec 20, 2011
| Oak Creek Waterfall (AZ) has some .13 cracks too, such as "Kindness" and "Parting Gift" |  FLAG |
By JCM From Golden, CO Dec 20, 2011
| In NH: Journey to a Mushroom Planet is a steep 13a crack at Rumney (Monsters). Can be climbed as a jam crack, or via some more facey sequences. Often has fixed nuts as pro. I think that most of the hard trad routes at Cathedral are primarily face climbs protected by small gear and sketchy "soft iron" pro. |  FLAG |
By Luke Stefurak From Mountain View, CA Dec 20, 2011
| There is at least one 5.13 at trout. It was a project last year, assume it got sent by now. Watts did the east face with bolts and fixed nuts, Sonnie did the first gear only redpoint. Pretty sure that Charlie at the RRG has seen a full Redpoint. Not sure where all of Pete Kamitses climbs are. Here is one: One called Oppositional Defiance Disorder (5.14a) in New York I don't think that Nick ever sent Kansas City Special... I know that Will Stanhope was working on it... Thought it was still a project. I think that Tricks are for Kids should be more in the 13b range. Didler also did an extension of this route, bumping up the grade slightly. The Salathe Headwall can be divided in up to three pitches 13a, 13a/b, 13b or 13c. Pyromania does follow cracks, but climbs more like a face route. Strong under-clinging and lay-backing ability will get you further than pure crack skills. Phantom should be added 13a in Yosemite. John Bachar FA Excellent Adventure on the Rostrum (a variation to the final pitch). If you do it as one pitch is 5.13 for sure. FA Peter Croft. The FA on Stingray is Hidetaka Suzuki, Mike did it on TR. The Stigma is 5.13c or so at the Cookie in Yosemite. FA Todd Skinner first "redpoin" Alan Watts. Good Story on the FA/ 2nd ascent |  FLAG |
By JCM From Golden, CO Dec 20, 2011
| johnL wrote: There is a 30ft crack one tier above the Panty Wall in Red Rocks. I don't have the guidebook or know the area or anything. The book I borrowed that day said it had not seen an FFA. I hear tell that it has been freed though. It might be a 13. I bet a Vegas climber would have a better idea. The Great Red Roof, 5.13, FFA Tom Moulin. Not sure what year. Basically a 30 foot roof crack; I think it is fingers-size. |  FLAG |
|