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Completion Backword Principle
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 8
votes
Routes in Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6)
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Bob's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Burning Down the House S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Completion Backword Principle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Eldorado Gold S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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In Plain View S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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King of Pain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mind Control S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Opus 73 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Peri-less Journey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Powder Finger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Riding With the King S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Three-Stage Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Top Down Design S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Tod Anderson and Richard Wright, 1993 |
| Page Views: | 1,752 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Jul 7, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
This excellent route fires up the middle of the longest section of the yellow, South facing main wall of Ridge 2, just left of a large pine tree. Climbing is on lay-aways, edges, and flakes and seems to get just a bit harder with every move. The technical crux, strictly speaking, comes with a finger traverse to the left, near the middle of the climb, and seemed a bit harder than 5.11a (my own call is more like 5.11b since the edge/seam really peters out at the left end). Another left traverse 20 ft below the anchors adds another 5.10+ crux on sketchy feet and is a bit tricky since it moves quite a way to the left. The rest feels a bit spacey, but climbing is never harder than 5.9. Three stars for the great stone, high continuity, and tricky sequences in the middle.
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