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 ADVANCED
Techweeny Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Completely Clueless T,S 
Crackula T 
Crankenstein S 

Completely Clueless 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jeff Ash, Adam Read, Matt Samet
Page Views: 178
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 29, 2012

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Description 

The middle of the 3 bolted lines on Techweenie Buttress, Completely Clueless consists of thin face climbing to a very thin crux at bolt 4. It's 30' from the last bolt to the anchor; a finger-size cam in a vertical slot would help here, a 2nd piece just before the anchor could also be placed. This was probably one of the first sport climbs in the Sandias (although bringing gear for the top is advised).

Location 

The middle of the 3 bolted lines on the smooth buttress portion of Techweenie Buttress, right of the 5.8 Crackula.

Protection 

4 bolts plus 1 or 2 finger size cams, to a 2-bolt anchor


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