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Complete Northwest Ridge
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British Easy Snow
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in The Old Settler
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Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow |
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Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow |
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West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5000 ft (1515 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | D. Brayshaw, S. Cook, D. Wilm, June 1997 |
| Page Views: | 706 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Mar 19, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gates may be closed.
Details
Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.
Description
From the col at the toe of the NW ridge, which can be reached from either north or south, proceed east along the ridge crest. The first 300m or so is easy scrambling up to the summit of Peak 6600, a horn-like tower. Bypass the summit block via a traverse across ledges on a steep wall about 20m below the summit on the south side (easy class 4). Follow the crest beyond Peak 6600 (easy scrambling, Class 2-3) to a 10m discontinuity which is climbed via a corner crack on the south side (10m, 5.6). Continue following the ridge crest beyond to a distinct notch below the final steep rise to the Settler's north summit. This notch may also be reached directly from Daiphy Lake via a steep, loose gully.
There are three short (30-40m) pitches of technical climbing out of the notch: 5.6, 5.5 and 5.3. From the top of the third pitch, about 300m of class 3 and 4 scrambling reaches the Settler's north summit.
There are three short (30-40m) pitches of technical climbing out of the notch: 5.6, 5.5 and 5.3. From the top of the third pitch, about 300m of class 3 and 4 scrambling reaches the Settler's north summit.
Location
The complete NW Ridge of the Settler can be reached from either Settler Creek or Daiphy Lake.
For the Settler Creek approach, drive or walk the logging road to where it switchbacks at the headwall below Settler Lake. Cross the creek here and bushwack for 15-20 minutes to gain snow and scree leading to a major couloir. Climb this couloir (mostly 30-35 degree snow with minor sections to 40 degrees), which rises 900m to the col at the toe of the Settler's long NW ridge. (2.5-3 hrs up from road) The same col may be reached from the south side via Daiphy Lake by traversing meadows NW from the lake outlet in about 1 hour.
DESCENT: if descending to Daiphy Lake, descend either the Standard Route ramp from the north-central col, or descend the north gully from the north peak, which begins one 50m Class 4 pitch or rappel below the summit.
If descent to Settler Creek is required, retrace the ridge, rappelling the four technical pitches. The rap anchor atop the 10m 5.6 discontinuity consists of a small tree; finding an additional rock anchor is desirable. Once at the col, the 900m couloir offers a quick glissade descent.
For the Settler Creek approach, drive or walk the logging road to where it switchbacks at the headwall below Settler Lake. Cross the creek here and bushwack for 15-20 minutes to gain snow and scree leading to a major couloir. Climb this couloir (mostly 30-35 degree snow with minor sections to 40 degrees), which rises 900m to the col at the toe of the Settler's long NW ridge. (2.5-3 hrs up from road) The same col may be reached from the south side via Daiphy Lake by traversing meadows NW from the lake outlet in about 1 hour.
DESCENT: if descending to Daiphy Lake, descend either the Standard Route ramp from the north-central col, or descend the north gully from the north peak, which begins one 50m Class 4 pitch or rappel below the summit.
If descent to Settler Creek is required, retrace the ridge, rappelling the four technical pitches. The rap anchor atop the 10m 5.6 discontinuity consists of a small tree; finding an additional rock anchor is desirable. Once at the col, the 900m couloir offers a quick glissade descent.
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