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By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Mar 26, 2013
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber
Hey everyone,

Just a heads up that Dan Allard who is cliffhanger9 took the time to tidy up the index - fixing broken coding, doing some re-formatting, and restoring a bunch of busted links and photos. So big time thanks to Dan for fixing that clusterfrig! It was much overdue.

I no longer have access to that forum, so if you have any questions, post them up here, or just PM me directly, and I'll do my best to get back to you.

The index is quite comprehensive, and probably worth saving to your bookmarks:

*Index to Dr. Piton Stuff*

There are even a few articles posted here at Mountain Project that are also included in the index.

Enjoy, study, click links, learn stuff, and ask questions!

Here yas go, eh?

rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum...

Cheers,
"Pass the Pitons" Pete aka Dr. Piton

P.S. Sorry about all the bold text. I am a recovering bold textaholic.

P.P.S. Due to a long standing agreement, the moderators do not edit the content of the index, only fix it to keep the links working and so on. In the index, I asked people not to reply to it. I did this because I would reply to it, and mention whatever new stuff I had added. So now people don't ever reply to it.

My request is simple - can someone please bump it now to the front of the forum? It currently has 83,000 hits but hasn't been bumped since 2006. One wonders how long it will take to reach a hundred or two thousand, now that the damn thing finally works. If you guys can keep it near the front of the forum, that would be great.

And don't forget to send any new questions my way!

FLAG
By Ryan N
From Palo Alto
Mar 26, 2013
RJN
Nice!

FLAG
By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Mar 26, 2013
BAD ASS, eh

:P

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By Jon H
From Boulder
Mar 27, 2013
At the matching crux
This is a great resource. Thanks Dan and Pete for putting in the time to write, organize, and compile it all!

FLAG
By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Mar 27, 2013
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber
I should have mentioned that the meat and potatoes are in posts #7 and #8.

Believe it or knott, I was kind of a n00b when I wrote all this stuff, and even the most recent stuff there is still more than ten years old! Another thirty or so walls might have given me a few more ideas about how to do things. {wink}

So if you have any questions about any of that stuff, you could fire me off an email, or ask me here. Not sure the best way to ask it - use this post or a separate post? Or maybe find a similar post here on this forum, and ask it there?

I'm sure we'll figger it out somehow....

FLAG
By ClimbPHX.com
From Mesa AZ
Mar 27, 2013
Final Pitch on Birdland - 5.7 Red Rocks
Sorry I got resucked back into 2003 with your Editorial of the Week...
What were you saying?

FLAG
By Mark Hudon
Mar 27, 2013
On the North America Wall in 1977.
Pete's stuff is great, invaluable actually.

FLAG
By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Mar 27, 2013
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber
Ahem.

Yeah, ClimbPHX - I really apologize for some of that stuff. There is a lot of choss in there, which I would happily delete if I could. I am also a recovering bold textaholic - sorry.

That period of time in my life was pretty bad, I was going through a divorce and custody battle from hell, and I was little overly cathartic in my writing. The internet and its forums were still fairly new, and I was intentionally trying to be a smartass, with the idea that the more people who got drawn in, the more hits the forum would get, and hence the more advertising revenue the website could garner. Much of the smartass stuff was never intended to be malicious, as I was really trying to do it in fun, but obviously lots of folks didn't see it that way. I hope you've noticed I don't write like that any more. Or at least not as much...

But hopefully this index will be a useful reference tool for you and that you will learn some new big wall tips. Since 2003 when the last of this stuff was written, lots of other folks have contributed many cool new ideas and figured out new ways of doing things, which they have also shared on line here and in other aid climbing forums. For instance, go have a look at Mark Hudon's excellent big wall tips:

hudonpanos.com/

More importantly, I hope this index and the stuff it leads you to gives you inspiration to go out, give it a try, and hopefully reach the summit. And if you see me on the bridge, be sure to let me know which tips you have found the most useful.

Cheers, eh?

FLAG
 
By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Mar 27, 2013
Holy 10 years old grudge batman... How does climbphx.com survive being such a giant bitch?

FLAG
By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Mar 27, 2013
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber
I doubt it was a grudge, but rather an observation of something annoying I wrote! Like I said, I really try to avoid writing that sort of stuff any more.

FLAG
By divnamite
From New York, NY
Mar 27, 2013
Thanks for the good work, Pete! But, damn, I feel like I have dyslexia when reading the stuff.

FLAG
By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Mar 27, 2013
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber
Divnamite,

Big wall climbing is definitely a Thinking Man's game. I didn't have as much experience with forums back then, so I wasn't putting in photos like I would do nowadays. Try making sense of the 2:1 post, which I tried to draw with little symbols like backslashes and stuff. I wonder if it's even understandable now! So understanding some of the stuff, especially without pictures, will take some thought.

Some of the ideas are really complex, some are very simple. Some are easy to figure out, and others will rack your brain. [Had to look that one up, it is indeed "rack" and not "wrack", in spite of what Richard Harrison had to sing about it].

If you think it's hard in your computer, try figuring it out standing in your aiders on the side of the wall a couple thousand feet off the deck!

But after all is said and done, Dr. Piton Technology is like a smorgasbord - take whatever you like and put it on your plate, and what you don't like, you can just leave sitting in the bowls. And when you find something you really like, take some extra!

Incidentally, the four best posts of all are right here on this forum, and they even have pictures!

mountainproject.com/v/the-bett...

mountainproject.com/v/dr-piton...

mountainproject.com/v/big_wall...

mountainproject.com/v/flagging...

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By Buff Johnson
Mar 27, 2013
smiley face
Pete, it seems the easiest way is to have an admin sticky-note your index so that it stays on top of the big wall forum and won't get lost down the timeline.

& thanks

FLAG
By divnamite
From New York, NY
Mar 27, 2013
Pete, wasn't trying to insult you or anything. Just making an observation. The difference between your RC posts and MP posts almost look like coming from two different persons.

Thanks again for good work!

FLAG
By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Mar 27, 2013
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber
Oh oh oh. I get it now. I thought you meant the technical descriptions were hard to follow.

Yeah, I did explain above why I was being such a pillock some of the time when I wrote this stuff. This is not an excuse, simply an explanation. I'm trying to "take the high road" these days. I rarely even respond to flames any more, tempted though I may be. We'll leave the Haters to their own thing.

Life's too short, eh?

FLAG
By Rhett Burroughs
From Valdosta, GA
Mar 29, 2013
Yup
"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok wrote:
Life's too short, eh?


Yeah it is. Brushing up on these tips for my first big wall attempt this year!! I hear Yosemite is nice in September!

FLAG
 
By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Mar 29, 2013
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber
September and October is certainly the best time of year for walls in Yosemite. Crisp bluebird skies, and it seldom rains. The waterfalls are dry so things on the east side of El Cap become climbable along with stuff on the Falls Wall. Or the Klaus Wall, as Klaus tells me "they" all call it now. ;)

Disadvantages are shorter days, and you miss the waterfalls and the dogwood blossoms. And the spring at the base of Half Dome may be dry.

See you on the bridge, then?

FLAG
By Rhett Burroughs
From Valdosta, GA
Apr 1, 2013
Yup
"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok wrote:
September and October is certainly the best time of year for walls in Yosemite. Crisp bluebird skies, and it seldom rains. The waterfalls are dry so things on the east side of El Cap become climbable along with stuff on the Falls Wall. Or the Klaus Wall, as Klaus tells me "they" all call it now. ;)


Would you recommend anything on the East side for a first time EL Cap route?? I'm looking for < 5.10 C3 and less crowding than the trade routes. I have good mileage on Looking GLass and Whitesides aid in NC. Training hard this SPring.


"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok wrote:
See you on the bridge, then?


I'll bring the beer.

FLAG
By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Apr 1, 2013
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber
Sure. Send me a message, let me know what kind of wall experience you have over there, and I could give you some recommendations. It's definitely a lot more satisfying to get off the much repeated trade routes and their crowds, and climb something a little more obscure.

FLAG
By Rhett Burroughs
From Valdosta, GA
Apr 2, 2013
Yup
PM sent

FLAG
By ClimbPHX.com
From Mesa AZ
Apr 3, 2013
Final Pitch on Birdland - 5.7 Red Rocks
Boissal wrote:
Holy 10 years old grudge batman... How does climbphx.com survive being such a giant bitch?


No one's being a Bitch Fucknob - I read that entire thread years ago ... and read the entire thing again... It was a joke

Suck it.

FLAG
By Detrick Snyder
From Boulder, CO
Nov 6, 2013
Bump. Thanks Doc!

FLAG


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