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Competitive Edge 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Robyn Erbesfield, Roy Britton - 1989
Page Views: 345
Submitted By: yevquest on Mar 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

A thin, thought provoking route that's worth doing if you like less than vertical edging. Start up a bottommed-out crack that protects ok with nuts and units, heading for the lure of the bolts. Once there, climb straight up on very thin holds with decent feet (crux), clipping 4 bolts to reach a juggy hueco. There's some good gear above the hueco then some 11- climbing on poor gear (very small wires) that eventually ends in some thank God jugs. Easy climbing above leads to a ledge. I didn't see an anchor but an easy traverse left gained the Cakewalk anchors.

Location 

In between Cakewalk and Golden Locks.

Protection 

4 bolts and a light rack, heavy on small gear.


Comments on Competitive Edge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Apr 28, 2011

I found many of the holds fragile and so sharp they cut into my finger pads.
By Wei-Ming
From: Atlanta, GA
Oct 20, 2014

For those wanting an on-sight, don't read.

For those wanting some extra beta:
After the second bolt avoid getting sucked up and left by seemingly probable terrain. Follow the boltline.

After the bolted section, theres a small ledge where you can rest. Just up and left of this, get a bomber smaller wire (yellow DMM Offset or equivalent works) in a vertical seam and run it out to the top. Cracks above this placement seem too shallow for even BD C3's, and have no constrictions so nuts/RPs won't work. This is a pretty cool route that seemingly sees very little traffic.
By mailforwil
Nov 11, 2014

Wei Ming I'd agree it's an awesome route but definitely not for those unfamiliar with making poor gear work as well as possible - poor nuts down low with a few solid cams (but of the uber small variety, i.e. black alien, 00-000 C3). I got a great yellow X4 after the last bolt and a mid/small brassy just after that placed and pulled to set facing wide in the shallow flaring crack just before the good crimp, before the final jugs. A little surprised at the lack of anchors but set a #1 C4 and walked over to the golden locks anchors. Wouldn't be too upset if anyone felt like trying to clean out the super dirty bottom finger crack.