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SW Face Left (Trespassers Wall)
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Abstract Roller Disco 
Compassion of the Elephants 
Connie's Big Step 
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Feeling Groovy 
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Perverts in Power 
Tin God 
Top 40 To Middle Toilet 
Torturer's Apprentice 
Trespassers Will Be Violated 

Compassion of the Elephants 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Maria Cranor & Randy Vogel, November 1979
Page Views: 722
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Jan 1, 2002
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1980 something...

Kris Solem climbing The Compas...

Description 

The rightmost route on the face.

Start from the top of a boulder, thin face climbing leads to the first bolt before the horizontal break. Getting established above the break proves to be problematic, and the climbing up and then over to the crux tends towards the unbelievable, being quite thin. The crux itself involves making even thinner moves to gain an undercling flake.

The long and lonely leading above is not as difficult, but is certainly thought-provoking with its sparse protection (only 2 bolts on this section).

Extend the lower clips to avoid rope-drag.


Protection 

6 bolts, medium cams for belay.



Photos of Compassion of the Elephants Slideshow Add Photo
At the crux - also the 80's - notice my newly bought Asolo Onsights!
At the crux - also the 80's - notice my newly boug...
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 13, 2003

0.75" to 1" cam possibilities under the undercling after the crux.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 27, 2003

Sorry Randy, you were there too!

By maria cranor
Apr 21, 2003

I can't resist sharing my recollection of the f.a.; Randy had to browbeat me into finishing the job- after putting in the first 2 bolts, drilled on lead of course with a hand drill and rather a lot of wingeing, I was so scared I wouldn't go back for two months!

By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Dec 3, 2008

I think this route is a Josh Classic.

The setting, the moves, the runout...

must re-visit soon...

By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Nov 16, 2009

After clipping the second bolt, back-clean the first. It'll save you some rope drag on the easy, but runout, top half. Also, there's a bolted rap station ontop of this climb. Have your follower trail second rope, or swing way out left to another set of anchors on the face.