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Compact harnesses
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By Lou C
May 15, 2013
The view from GT Ledge in the Gunks
I'm going to be doing some traveling. I currently have a Black Diamond Momentum DS harness. This harness is easily the most bulky object in my pack. I plan on just taking shoes, chalk bag, and harness. I want to replace this harness with a more lightweight and packable one.

I am looking at the BD Couloir. This thing packs down so small! I know this own't be the most comfortable harness out there, but I want to have something so I can hit gyms and hit some routes in the crags.

Any suggestions?

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By Gunkiemike
May 15, 2013
CAMP makes some minimalist harnesses (the ALP 95 is said to pack down to the size of a #11 hex), but good luck finding them in a store to try on.

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By John D
May 15, 2013
They're expensive, but the arc teryx harnesses are pretty compact and very comfortable.

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By divnamite
From New York, NY
May 15, 2013
Lou C wrote:
I'm going to be doing some traveling. I currently have a Black Diamond Momentum DS harness. This harness is easily the most bulky object in my pack. I plan on just taking shoes, chalk bag, and harness. I want to replace this harness with a more lightweight and packable one. I am looking at the BD Couloir. This thing packs down so small! I know this own't be the most comfortable harness out there, but I want to have something so I can hit gyms and hit some routes in the crags. Any suggestions?

Arcteryx harnesses are some of the lightest and more compact harnesses out there.

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By flykatcher
May 15, 2013
robbing banks
the BD couloir packs down super small - a bit larger than the size of your fist. i doubt there are many harnesses that pack smaller.

i use it for mountaineering and really like it due to its light weight and compactness. the lack of padding doesn't matter when you're wearing several layers. if you're gonna be hang-dogging a lot in shorts it'd probably be uncomfortable but if you're looking for a minimalist harness that's light and compact this is the one.

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By amarius
May 15, 2013
Edelrid Loopo Ligth

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By Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
May 15, 2013
I have the couloir as well, and although it's small and light (and way cheaper than Arc'teryx!), it's a literal pain to hang in. The diaper design rides up and in pretty quickly. I'd suggest looking for something in a swami/leg loop style. Misty Mountain makes a number of 'program' harnesses that are all webbing but maintain the more comfortable design.

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By Woodchuck ATC
May 15, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
MadRock Mercury was a very light, small storage harness,and on their close out page for over a year.

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By John Husky
May 15, 2013
Swami Belt. If you watch the trailer for Jeff Lowe's Metanoia, you'll see him whip onto a bowline around his waist (or maybe a swami, I don't actually recall).

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By Ryan N
From San Louis Obispo
May 15, 2013
RJN
Dead Birds, their without question the smallest pack-able harness on the market if you wanna pony up some dough.

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By Gunkiemike
May 16, 2013
John D wrote:
They're expensive, but the arc teryx harnesses are pretty compact and very comfortable.


If money's a concern, the CAMP ALP 95 is only $49.

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By splitclimber
May 16, 2013
i have a Camp. packs really small. just enough material. not expensive. wouldn't want to do lots of hanging belays or load up with a full rack though.

There is another thread about this on the forum.

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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
May 16, 2013
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim
Also have one of the Camp harnesses, which I use solely for long alpine traverses which involve limited raps. I wouldn't use it for anything more than this; while light, it's flimsy. It's starting to fall apart after 4 routes (I only wore in during raps). I carry my Arcteryx when I need something light but substantial; my first one lasted several years of regular use.

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By Worster than you
From Lafayette, CA
May 16, 2013
Black Diamond Bod was my first harness, and I kept it around for alpine routes. Quite compact. Yeah, you'd want to limit your hanging belays, perhaps . . . .

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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
May 16, 2013
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.
fyi the dead bird is on sale at the ClYmb right now

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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
May 17, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
black diamond flight.

dont use a coulouir for rock climbing. you will reget it.

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By Craig T
From Chicago, IL
May 17, 2013
BD Chaos is build in similar style to Arcteryx, though a little thicker. Rolls up nice into a small cylinder, and is super comfortable for both sport whippers and hanging belays

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By Superclimber
May 17, 2013
I've found the Petzl Hirundos to be a good compromise. I didn't like the Camp Air CR harness that I bought. Even after moving the gear loops, it really didn't fit very well. Camp sucks. The Hirundos is light, functional, comfortable enough, and packs small.

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By Graham Johnson
May 18, 2013
I really like my CAMP Air CR - super light, reasonably compact and it's got everything I want in a harness. I use it for everything - rock, ice, alpine, mixed... It's not the most comfortable harness for cragging (I have another harness for that sort of stuff), but it's way better than a couloir or bod - and lighter too. It's easily my favorite harness of all the ones I've owned. Even though Chris doesn't like it, I think it rocks. For sure worth a look.

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By ClimberRunner
From Redmond, WA
May 19, 2013
I like the CAMP Blitz - 4 gear loops, a real belay loop (even with their non-twist feature) ice clipper slots, and it packs smaller, weighs less, and costs less than the BD couloir (or any of the Arc'teryx ones...)



harness
harness

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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
May 19, 2013
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock
ClimberRunner wrote:
I like the CAMP Blitz - 4 gear loops, a real belay loop (even with their non-twist feature) ice clipper slots, and it packs smaller, weighs less, and costs less than the BD couloir (or any of the Arc'teryx ones...)


This is the best alpine harness on the market... weight, functionality, comfort, size, price.... perfection.

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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
May 19, 2013
Middle
ClimberRunner wrote:
I like the CAMP Blitz - 4 gear loops, a real belay loop (even with their non-twist feature) ice clipper slots, and it packs smaller, weighs less, and costs less than the BD couloir (or any of the Arc'teryx ones...)


The only advantage the Blitz has is four gear loops and depending on the climb the back two loops may not be used anyways. Otherwise, the Blitz in a large weighs the same and costs the same as a Couloir. The Couloir has a normal belay loop, four ice clipper slots, haul loop, comes with a small stuff sack, and folds down to the size of a Ti coffee cup (my harness is in my cup). You can argue the merits of the wider swami but hanging belays and whippers in the Blitz are going to suck.

If I need four real gear loops and the features of a full on harness then I'll bring a full featured harness and sacrifice a little weight and packability.


Couloir vs Element locker
Couloir vs Element locker

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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
May 19, 2013
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock
I've hung for 15-20 minutes in the Blitz, hasn't yet ever gotten intolerable. I couldn't handle 30 seconds in the Couloir.

I haven't taken any whippers in the Blitz- it's definitely not for an environment where whippers are likely.

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By blakeherrington
May 19, 2013
Ben Beckerich wrote:
I've hung for 15-20 minutes in the Blitz, hasn't yet ever gotten intolerable. I couldn't handle 30 seconds in the Couloir. I haven't taken any whippers in the Blitz- it's definitely not for an environment where whippers are likely.



I've actually sport climbed and fallen quite a bit in mine on an alpine trip when the weather went south. I'm not very heavy but it was surprisingly tolerable.

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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
May 20, 2013
Middle
Ben Beckerich wrote:
I've hung for 15-20 minutes in the Blitz, hasn't yet ever gotten intolerable. I couldn't handle 30 seconds in the Couloir. I haven't taken any whippers in the Blitz- it's definitely not for an environment where whippers are likely.


I wouldn't rock climb in a Couloir but I have seen it done. Hanging in a Couloir sucks for sure.

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By Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
May 20, 2013
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One question about the Blitz.... (from a Coulior owner) - how easy is it to put the harness on? The couloir system pisses me off most of the time - I easily get the leg loops all twisted around and the very worst part (which is probably a safety concern I shouldn't complain about) is that the damn double back of the waistbelt is such a fricken pain.

Is the Coulior any better??? Or is it super challenging to get it doubled back and tight?

I guess I've gotten spoiled using my Xenos - almost to the point that I'm thinking about bringing it up the Lib Ridge route instead of the Couloir.

Thoughts?

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