Common Thug  5.12b

156 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 70 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Daniel Trugman on Nov 12, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. MORE INFO >>> Jailhouse has been and remains privately owned. The owner has graciously allowed an access easement and conservation easement to let climbers get to and climb at the cliff. Current access is now via the new double gate and gravel road. In the future, a new route may be necessary due to future subdivisions. For the current gate code and rules, visit www.accessfund.org/jailhouse. Some critical conditions of the easement we need to comply with include: No dogs on the property Close all gates (typically there are over 200 head of horses on the property), particularly the gate to O'Byrnes Ferry Road No loud music No fires No camping at the cliff, trailhead, or anywhere in the vicinity Access allowed only from sun-up to one hour after sundown No littering In addition, seasonal raptor closures on a portion of cliff line may be posted on the property and online if there is active raptor nesting. Our ability to climb here is contingent on our compliance with the conditions of the easement. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This cerebral route is the type you'll either love or have. After 20 feet of straightforward downpulling, "Common Thug" traverses hard left into an overhanging, left-facing corner. Powerful underclinging, technical footwork, and general skullduggery will see you through to the anchor. The climbing is quite sustained, though there are multiple opportunities for creative rest stances.

"Common Thug" might seem like a bit of sandbag on an onsight attempt, but is actually a popular warm up for hard-persons who have it wired.

Location 

On the right side of the Jailhouse, about 40 feet left of the 5.11+ warm ups.

Protection 

Fixed chains all the way up. Lower off the black draw next to an open cold shut.