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Deer Mountain South Side
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Common Potoo T 
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SSE Ridge T 

Common Potoo 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Deb Thompson, LP?
Page Views: 134
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 25, 2012

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Topo of the approximate line. Note the boulder ne...

Description 

This is a short, fun, juggy, visually unimpressive line. It is something you can add on if you do the SSE on the buttress just to the west as you descend back to your gear. 1.6 stars.

Below the gully that splits this crag, there is a slightly bigger boulder. Climb on jugs that just keep coming. The gear takes a bit of time to find. You, however, will have great stances for every placement. Aim for just right of a tiny roof ~100' up. You can belay where the angle eases off ~120' up or on the throne ~150' up.

To descend, you must downclimb/scramble into the gully. If you are willing to downclimb a bit, it is probably easiest to go slightly east from the throne, gain a ramp, skirt around a taller downclimb to find a shorter downclimb through a slot. Then go up a short way into a notch and go down to the gully between the 1st and 2nd buttresses.

To do the downscramble, you go down 3rd class maybe 60 vertical feet to get into the gully. Then, go through bushes up the gully to get to the notch.


Location 

This is below the gully splitting the 1st buttress. It starts near a slightly bigger boulder. There are probably a bunch of climbs that can be done here near the same rating.


Protection 

A rack of wires and cams to a #3 Camalot will work.



Photos of Common Potoo Slideshow Add Photo
Deb tops out.  It gives you a general sense of the line's location with the east face of the 2nd buttress in the background.
Deb tops out. It gives you a general sense of the...
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