This is a small but fun little cliff just off the Gem Lake Trail on the East end of Lumpy Ridge. There are three pitches, that I know of, on the cliff, which make for a fun after-work session or a way to squeeze in a little more climbing after a day at the Crescent Wall. The rock is of high quality, the routes are steep, traditional little jaunts, and the wall is south-facing and fairly sheltered from the west wind. Itís possible that there are folks out there with other (older) names for the crag, but I havenít heard of any.
Park at the new parking lot, off Devil's Gulch Road, and follow signs toward Gem Lake going north. After 20-30 minutes you'll reach a high point on the trail where you have an excellent view of the Crescent Wall, just across a major drainage. Continue along the trail which takes a gentle turn to the North (left). After just a short distance (100m), where you would cut down and right to access the Crescent Wall near the bottom of the drainage, there is an obvious crag just off to the left side of the trail. There is a steep curving crack, that ends just shy of the summit, on the right side of the wall and a full-length wide crack in the center of the wall.
Browse More Classics in Common Courtesy Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Common Courtesy Crag:
Dave With His Pants Down 5.10- Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Chlamydial Meat Pie 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Reacharound 5.11- Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet
Featured Route For Common Courtesy Crag
Chlamydial Meat Pie 5.10+ CO : Lumpy Ridge : Common Courtesy Crag
This is the crack pitch on the far right side of the south face. The crack ends just before the top and a single bolt protects the unfinished moves to the summit. For those of us that can't climb 5.13 slab, this pitch is a great 10+ crack to a single bolt anchor. For anyone up to the challenge, the moves past the bolt have yet to be done even on toprope.The crack provides excellent steep finger and hand jamming on great rock with equally great protection...[more] Browse More Classics in CO