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 ADVANCED
(6) First Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agar Jelly S 
Breezy T 
Cape to the Sky S 
Commissary Crack T,S 
Crow, The T 
Grass T 
Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 
Heaven's Falling T,S 
Noodle Line T 
Sorry Valentine T,S 
Westbound Road T 
Wonderland Fairy T 

Commissary Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 308
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Aug 31, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: topo

Description 

CAUTION: Two lead bolts on the upper headwall have broken or cracked. Clip at your own risk.

This is a super-classic climb. Retro-bolted in 2004, it still makes a better trad climb. Very little mandatory jamming.

Start up the crack to the right of the short buttress that creates the choke-point between the huge boulder and the wall. Alternatively, you can start up the bolts to the left on Lower Commissary. Climb through the dihedral onto a grassy ledge - beware of loose rock! Continue up into another obtuse, clean dihedral on dark red stone, then out a thin mini-overhang onto another grassy ledge. Again, beware! Move up into the great 3-4" splitter on white-gold stone for 40 feet and into an alcove with a two-bolt anchor. Belay here, or continue up the wide crack. You can go straight up the crack to the ridge peak, or step right (beware of big loose blocks!) to a ledge and scramble up. Use a single bolt backed up with a nut, and enjoy the view from your phenomenal belay perch. You could even continue from here up Dragon Ridge to the tourist trail...

Descent: There is a two-bolt anchor at the perch. If you rappel from the ridge down the north side, beware of people below. The rap off the backside is 33m, but a 60m should get you down. It's a 40m rap from the alcove. It can be done with a single 60m by rapping to the anchors of Lower Commissary then rapping again to the ground.

Location 

On Lower Dragon Ridge, just outside the First Cave; the south-facing wall. It's just left of lines like Calypso and Noodle Line.

Protection 

Helmets. There is a lot of loose rock on the ledges!

Lead: Gear to 4" (3-4" x2)
Belay: (top) Bolt (2005) + medium nut
Rappel: (top) Bolts (2005) 33m!


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By Danger
From: Taipei City
Apr 13, 2014

As mentioned, be aware that there are not just loose rocks but loose blocks on the upper section of the climb.

The blocks should hold weight for a move or two(though being careful after typhoons earthquakes is smart) but when placing pieces make sure you are bracing them against solid stone.